YOU NEED: sill/viscose;
fusing; 8 buttons.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE:
1 cm for all seams, 2 cm for hem.
ATTENTION! Before sewing,
print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to
150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and
symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE
COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Collar – 2 pieces
2. Stand-up collar – 2 pieces
3. Back part – 2 pieces
4. Right front part – 1 piece
5. Left front part – 1 piece
6. Sleeve – 2
pieces
7. Cuff – 2
pieces
8. Right front
band – 1 piece
9. Left front
band – 1 piece
10. Inset – 2 pieces
Fusing: right front band, left front band, outer collar, stand-up collar,
cuffs.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply
the fusing to wrong side of right front band, left front band, outer collar,
stand-up collar, cuffs.
2. Stitch bust darts as well as front/back waist
vertical darts.
3. Neaten middle back edge, stitch it and press the
seam.
4. Neaten inner edge of
left/right front bands.
5. Press right front part’s/front band’s blind fly one-piece facings
into wrong side. Make buttonholes into right front band. Lay front band on
front part right sides together, overstitch left front part along front edging
and neckline, overstitch right front part along neckline only. (Overstitch
front part upwards.) Topstitch left front edging’s overstitching allowance on
front band. (Topstitch at 0.2 cm from seam.) Turn edgings right side out Stitch
blind fly’s one-pieces facings together and neaten them. Topstitch along front
edging fixing the closure.
6. Neaten shoulder edges,
stitch them and press the seam backwards.
7. Neaten side
edges, stitch them and press backwards.
8. Overstitch inner collar
with outer one, cut corner allowance and turn the collar right side out. Press the
collar.
9. Stitch stand-ups inserting the collar.
10. Stitch inner stand-up
with the collar into neckline, fold outer stand-up’s open edge under and
topstitch it along the seam joining inner stand-up. Fold stand-up’s edges and
stitch together. Topstitch the collar along its perimeter.
11. Stitch the inset to sleeve
hem. Neaten the seam and press it towards the sleeve. Make a slit into inset,
neaten it, fold it into wrong side and topstitch at 0.5 cm from the edge. Make a
fix at slits top.
Our advice:
you can use pleated fabric for inset.
12. Stitch sleeve seams and
neaten them.
13. Overstitch cuff’s side
edges, cut corner allowances and turn the cuff right side out. Press the
cuff.
14. Stitch outer cuff to
sleeve hem. Fold outer cuff’s allowance under and topstitch along the seam
joining outer cuff.
15. Stitch sleeves in easing
them along sleeve caps. Neaten joining seams.
16. Neaten hem allowance,
fold it into wrong side and topstitch along the edge.
17. Sew buttons on left
front edging. Make buttonholes into stand-up and cuffs. Sew buttons
on stand-up and
cuffs.