YOU NEED: denim; fusing; lining; zipper; 2 buttons.
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Side back part – 2 pieces
2. Side front part – 2 pieces
3. Front yoke – 2 pieces
4. Back yoke – 2 pieces
5. Front
band – 2 pieces
6. Collar – 2 pieces
7. Center back part – 2 pieces
8. Center front part – 2 pieces
9. Back waistband – 1 piece
10. Front waistband – 2 pieces
11. Belt – 2 pieces
12. Belt loop – 1 piece
13. Placket – 2 pieces
14. On-stitch placket – 2 pieces
15. Shaped placket – 2 pieces
16. Cuff – 2 pieces
17. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
18. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
19. Back neckline overstitch – 1 piece
20. Front waistband’s facing – 2 pieces
21. Back waistband’s facing – 1 piece
Lining:
1. Side
back part – 2 pieces
2. Side front part – 2 pieces
3. Front yoke – 2 pieces
4. Back yoke – 2 pieces
5. Center
back part – 2 pieces
6. Center
front part – 2 pieces
7. Upper
sleeve – 2 pieces
8. Lower
sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusing: front
band, back neckline facing, center front part, outer collar, placket.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong
side of front band, back neckline facing, center front part, outer collar,
placket.
2. Stitch
pleats into center front part. Stitch pleats
into center back part.
3. Lay
outer collar on inner one, then overstitch. Slash seam allowances into corners.
Turn the collar right side out, then press.
4. Stitch
the yoke to front part. Topstitch at 0.5 cm from the seam.
5. Stitch
the yoke to back part. Topstitch at 0.5 cm from the seam.
6. Stitch
front relieves, press them apart.
7. Press
shaped placket’s allowances along outer contour. Mark placket’s place on front
parts and topstitch at 0
2 cm from edge.
8. Apply
stripes of fusing to wrong side of pocket entrances into plackets. Mark pocket
entrances. Cut pocket entrance. Cut diagonal
notches at 1-1.5 cm from pocket ends. Turn allowances into wrong side through
notches, press pocket entrances. Lay zippers under pocket entrances with their
teeth visible. Topstitch pocket entrances at 0.2 cm from edges. Mark pocket’s
place into front part. Press pocket entrances along outer contour and topstitch
along marking topstitching at 0.2 cm from pocket’s edge.
9. Stitch
front waistband to front part’s lower edge. Press the seam apart and topstitch
at 0.5 cm from the seam.
10. Stitch
the placket to front part. Press the seam apart and topstitch at 05 cm from the
seam.
11. Stitch back relieve and press it apart.
12. Stitch
middle back seam and press it apart.
13. Stitch
back waistband to back part’s lower edge. Press the seam apart and topstitch at
0.5 cm from the seam.
14. Lay
front parts right sides together, adjust edges coinciding pockets, then measure
front edgings’ length. Stitch the zipper to front edgings. Press front edgings
at closure segment under.
15. Lay
front bands on front parts right sides together, then overstitch along front
edgings (at front parts’ side). Stitch front bands’ lower edges to waistband’s
lower edge. Cut seams of front edgings’ lower corners. Turn front edgings right
side out. Topstitch at 0.7 cm from edges.
16. Stitch jacket’s
shoulder/side edges, press seams apart.
17. Stitch
shoulder edges of back neckline facing and front bands, then press seams apart.
Stitch inner collar into jacket’s neckline, stitch outer collar to back
neckline facing/front bands edges.
18. Stitch
facing side edges of front/back waistbands and press seams apart. Stitch
facing’s front edge to front band, press the seam. Lay upper/lower waistbands
with facings right sides together, then overstitch lower edge. Fold waistband
facings into wrong side and press lower edge.
19. Stitch
elbow seam, press it apart. Stitch sleeve front seam and press it apart.
20. Fold
the cuff along the center and overstitch cuff’s corners. Slash corner
allowances, turn the cuff right side out and press it. Stitch outer cuff to
sleeve hem.
21. Stitch sleeves into armholes according to notches.
Stitch shoulder pads in.
22. Fold belt loop along the center wrong side out,
adjust edges and overstitch at 1 cm from edges. Turn the details right side out
(place the seam at bending or make an edging of 0.1-0.2 cm width), then press.
Cut belt loops according to size. Neaten upper/lower edges. Topstitch belt loops.
23. Stitch lining details together and stitch lining
sleeves in leaving a hole into sleeve’s right front seam.
24.
Stitch the lining to inner edges of front bands/back neckline facing. Press
allowances of collar joining seams apart and fix close to seams.
25.
Stitch the lining to jacket/sleeves facings’ lower edges. Turn the jacket right
side out through a hole in the sleeve. Stitch sleeve hole’s edges together.
26. Lay
belts right sides together and overstitch along four sides leaving a hole into
lower edge. Turn the belt right side out and press it. Topstitch it at 0.5 cm
from edge. Pull the belt into belt loops.