YOU NEED: natural/mixed fabric; fusing; lining;
shoulder pads; 4 buttons.
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3 cm for garment/sleeve hems.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Center back part – 2 pieces
2. Side back part – 2 pieces
3. Side front part – 2 pieces
4. Front basque – 4 pieces
5. Back basque – 4 pieces
6. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
7. Center front part – 2 pieces
8. Front band – 2 pieces
9. Collar – 2 pieces
10. Lapel – 4 pieces
11. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
12. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
Lining:
1. Back
part – 2 pieces
2. Front part – 2 pieces
3. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
4. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusing: front
band, front part, back neckline facing, collar, lapel.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong
side of front band, front part, back neckline facing, collar, lapel.
2. Stitch
back darts and press them towards back center.
3. Stitch the lapel to the collar, press
joining seam apart.
4. Stitch
middle back seam and press it apart. Stitch basque’s middle seam and press it
apart.
5. Stitch
front/back relieves and press them apart.
6. Stitch
front basque to front part’s lower edge. Press joining seam apart.
7. Stitch
back basque to back part’s lower edge. Press joining seam apart.
8. Stitch
side/shoulder edges, press side/shoulder seams apart.
9. Stitch
inner collar with lapel into front/back necklines. Press joining seam apart.
10.
Stitch shoulder edges of back neckline facing and front bands. Press shoulder
seams of facing and front bands apart. Stitch outer collar with lapel into
front band/facing neckline. Press joining seam apart.
11. Cut
fabric stripe of 3 cm width for loops. Fold the stripe along the center and
topstitch at 0.5 cm from bend, overstitching one edge. Turn the stripe right
side out and press it. Cut loops and fold them. Tack loops to right front edging.
12. Stitch
side edges of front/back parts’ basque. Press basque’s side seams apart. Neaten
basque’s upper edge.
13. Pin front band on front part right sides together and
overstitch along edging, lapel and collar fall. Lay basques right sides
together and overstitch jacket’s lower edge, cut corner allowances. Topstitch
front edging’s overstitching allowance on front band at closure and at front
edging at lapels. (Topstitch at 0.2 cm from seam.) Turn edgings right side out.
Turn the basque right side out, press the basque and front edgings.
14. Stitch
elbow seam and press it apart. Press sleeve hems into wrong side. Stitch sleeve
front seam and press it apart.
15. Stitch sleeve into armholes. Sew shoulder pads.
16. Stitch lining details together and stitch sleeve
in.
17. Stitch
the lining to inner edges of front bands/back neckline facing. Press allowances
of seam joining the collar apart and fix them close to seams.
18.
Stitch the lining to sleeve hems. Turn the jacket right side out through
jacket’s bottom. Adjust jacket hem and lining hem. Lay inner basque’s upper
edge on the lining and topstitch along the seam joining upper basque.
19. Sew buttons on left front edging.