YOU NEED: wool or semi-wool; fusing; 7 buttons;
shoulder pads.
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3 cm for garment/sleeve hems.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Back part – 2 pieces
2. Front part – 2 pieces
3. Inner collar – 1 piece
4. Outer collar – 1 piece
5. Front band – 2 pieces
6. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
7. Waistband – 2 pieces
8. Sleeve – 2 pieces
9. Cuff – 2 pieces
Fusing: front
band, outer collar, back neckline facing.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong
side of front band, outer collar, back neckline facing.
2. Stitch
front/back darts. Press back darts toward back center, press front darts toward
front center.
3. Lay
outer collar in inner one and overstitch. Slash corner allowances, turn the
collar right side out. Press
the collar.
4. Neaten
front bands’ outer edges. Pin front band
on front part right sides together and overstitch along edging. (Overstitch
front part upward the notch determining end of stitching the collar in). Cut
seams of front edgings’ upper corners. Topstitch edging’s overstitching
allowance on front band at closure and at front edging at lapels. (Topstitch at
0.2 cm from seam.) Turn edgings right side out.
5. Neaten middle back seam, stitch it and press apart.
6. Neaten
shoulder/side seams, stitch them and press apart.
7. Neaten
facings’ outer edge. Stitch shoulder edges of back neckline facing and front
band and press seams apart. Stitch inner collar into jacket neckline, stitch
outer collar to back neckline facing.
8. Neaten
elbow seam, stitch it and press apart. Neaten sleeve front seam, stitch it and
press apart.
9. Stitch sleeves into armholes according to notches.
Neaten joining seams. Stitch
shoulder pads in.
10. Stitch waistband’s middle edge and press it apart. Fold it along the
center, wrong side out, and overstitch front edges. Turn the waistband into
right side and press corners. Make loose-looped stitch at 0.5 cm from
waistband’s upper edge. Pull detail’s upper edge correspondingly to front/back
part’s lower edge. Stitch the waistband to jacket’s lower edge coinciding
middle seams. Neaten joining seam and topstitch it on the jacket.
11. Stitch cuff’s side edges and press the seam apart.
Press the cuff along the center right side out. Make loose-looped stitch at 0.5
cm from cuff’s upper edge. Pull cuff’s upper edge correspondingly to sleeve
hem’s length. Stitch the cuff to sleeve hem. Neaten joining seam and press it
towards the sleeve.
12. Make a
buttonhole into right front edging, sew a button on left one.