5568 JACKET WITH RUFFS

 

YOU NEED: wool or semi-wool; fusing; 7 buttons; shoulder pads.

 

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.

 

SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3 cm for garment/sleeve hems.

 

ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

 

WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!

 

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Back part – 2 pieces

2. Front part – 2 pieces

3. Inner collar – 1 piece

4. Outer collar – 1 piece

5. Front band – 2 pieces

6. Back neckline facing – 1 piece

7. Waistband – 2 pieces

8. Sleeve – 2 pieces

9. Cuff – 2 pieces

 

Fusing: front band, outer collar, back neckline facing.

 

INSTRUCTIONS:

 

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front band, outer collar, back neckline facing.

 

2. Stitch front/back darts. Press back darts toward back center, press front darts toward front center.

 

3. Lay outer collar in inner one and overstitch. Slash corner allowances, turn the collar right side out. Press the collar.

 

4. Neaten front bands’ outer edges. Pin front band on front part right sides together and overstitch along edging. (Overstitch front part upward the notch determining end of stitching the collar in). Cut seams of front edgings’ upper corners. Topstitch edging’s overstitching allowance on front band at closure and at front edging at lapels. (Topstitch at 0.2 cm from seam.) Turn edgings right side out.

 

5. Neaten middle back seam, stitch it and press apart.

 

6. Neaten shoulder/side seams, stitch them and press apart.

 

7. Neaten facings’ outer edge. Stitch shoulder edges of back neckline facing and front band and press seams apart. Stitch inner collar into jacket neckline, stitch outer collar to back neckline facing.

 

8. Neaten elbow seam, stitch it and press apart. Neaten sleeve front seam, stitch it and press apart.

 

9. Stitch sleeves into armholes according to notches. Neaten joining seams. Stitch shoulder pads in.

 

10. Stitch waistband’s middle edge and press it apart. Fold it along the center, wrong side out, and overstitch front edges. Turn the waistband into right side and press corners. Make loose-looped stitch at 0.5 cm from waistband’s upper edge. Pull detail’s upper edge correspondingly to front/back part’s lower edge. Stitch the waistband to jacket’s lower edge coinciding middle seams. Neaten joining seam and topstitch it on the jacket.

 

11. Stitch cuff’s side edges and press the seam apart. Press the cuff along the center right side out. Make loose-looped stitch at 0.5 cm from cuff’s upper edge. Pull cuff’s upper edge correspondingly to sleeve hem’s length. Stitch the cuff to sleeve hem. Neaten joining seam and press it towards the sleeve.

 

12. Make a buttonhole into right front edging, sew a button on left one.