YOU NEED: nature/mixed fabric; fusing; lining; shoulder
pads; 5 buttons; 6 buttons of smaller diameter for sleeve vents.
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3 cm for garment/sleeve hems.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Side back part – 2 pieces
2. Side front part – 2 pieces
3. Front band – 2 pieces
4. Collar – 2 pieces
5. Center back part – 2 pieces
6. Center front part – 2 pieces
7. Sleeve – 2 pieces
8. Back neckline facing
Lining:
1. Side
back part – 2 pieces
2. Side front part – 2 pieces
3. Center back part – 2 pieces
4. Center front part – 2 pieces
5. Sleeve
– 2 pieces
Lining: front
band, back neckline facing, center front part, outer collar.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong
side of front band, back neckline facing, center front part, outer collar.
2. Stitch
back darts and press them towards back center.
3. Lay
collars together and overstitch them. Slash seam allowances into corners and
turn the collar right side out. Press the
collar.
4.
Stitch front relieve edges and press them apart.
5. Pin front band on front part right sides together and
overstitch along edging. (Overstitching goes upwards at front part side.)
Stitch front bands’ lower edges to front part along hem line. Cut front
edging’s rounded upper/lower corners. Topstitch front edgings’ overstitching
allowances on front bands at 0.2 cm from seams (stop stitching 3 cm before
neckline and lower corner). Turn front edgings right side out.
6. Stitch
middle back seam and press it apart. Stitch back relieves and press them apart.
Stitch shoulder/side seams of the jacket and press them apart.
7. Stitch
shoulder edges of back neckline facing and front band, then press them apart.
Stitch inner collar into jacket’s neckline, stitch outer collar into back
neckline facing/front band edges.
8. Press
sleeve hems. Stitch sleeve seams and press them apart.
9. Stitch sleeves into armholes according to notches.
Stitch shoulder pads.
10. Stitch lining details together, stitch lining sleeves in leaving a hole into a sleeve’s
seam.
11. Stitch
the lining to inner edges of front band/back neckline facing. Press allowances
of collar joining seam apart and fix close to seams.
12. Stitch the lining to jacket/sleeve hems. Turn the jacket right side out through the hole in the sleeve. Stitch hole’s edges together.
13. Make buttonholes into right front edging, sew buttons on left one. Sew buttons on the vent.