YOU NEED: natural/mixed fabric; fusing; lining;
shoulder pads; decorative rings; decorative cord for collar; band.
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 2.5 cm for
garment/sleeve hems.
NB!
Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen
width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget
about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Side back part – 2 pieces
2. Side front part – 2 pieces
3. Collar – 1 piece
4. Center back part – 2 pieces
5. Center front part – 4 pieces
6. Sleeve – 2 pieces
7. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
Lining:
1. Side
back part - 2 pieces
2. Side front part – 2 pieces
3. Center back part – 2 pieces
4. Sleeve – 2 äåòàëè
Fusing:
back neckline facing, center front part.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of back neckline facing, 2 center front parts.
2. Stitch
back darts and press them towards the center.
3. Fold
the collar along the center and overstitch it along short edge leaving a hole
for a cord. Turn the collar right side out and press it. Make loose stitch
along collar edge and gather the fabric.
4. Stitch front relieves and press them apart.
5. Stitch
middle back part and press it apart. Stitch back relieves and press them apart.
Stitch shoulder/side seams and press them apart.
6. Stitch
sleeve seams and press them apart.
7. Stitch sleeves into armholes according to notches.
Stitch shoulder pads in.
8. Stitch the collar to front part.
9. Stitch relives into lining details and neaten them.
Stitch neckline facing to the lining. Center front part is like front bands.
Stitch shoulder/side seams into lining and neaten them. Stitch sleeves in
leaving a hole into sleeve seam.
10.
Overstitch the jacket with the lining. (Overstitch on front part.) Stitch front
edgings’ lower edges to front parts accurately along marked hem line. Cut seams
of front edges’ lower corners. Topstitch front edge overstitching’s allowance
on front edgings at closure segment. The stitch goes at 0.2 cm from the seam
(stop 3 cm before neckline edge and lower corner). Turn front edgings right
side out. Remove tacking.
11. Stitch the lining to jacket/sleeve hems. Turn the jacket right side out through sleeve hole. Stitch hole’s edges together.
12. Insert decorative rings into front parts.
13. Pull
the cord into the collar and make gathering.