5599 JACKET WITH GATHERED COLLAR

 

YOU NEED: natural/mixed fabric; fusing; lining; shoulder pads; decorative rings; decorative cord for collar; band.

 

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.

 

SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 2.5 cm for garment/sleeve hems.

 

NB! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

 

WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!

 

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Side back part – 2 pieces

2. Side front part – 2 pieces

3. Collar – 1 piece

4. Center back part – 2 pieces

5. Center front part – 4 pieces

6. Sleeve – 2 pieces

7. Back neckline facing – 1 piece

 

Lining:

1. Side back part - 2 pieces

2. Side front part – 2 pieces

3. Center back part – 2 pieces

4. Sleeve – 2 äåòàëè

 

Fusing: back neckline facing, center front part.

 

INSTRUCTIONS:

 

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of back neckline facing, 2 center front parts.

 

2. Stitch back darts and press them towards the center.

 

3. Fold the collar along the center and overstitch it along short edge leaving a hole for a cord. Turn the collar right side out and press it. Make loose stitch along collar edge and gather the fabric.

 

4. Stitch front relieves and press them apart.

 

5. Stitch middle back part and press it apart. Stitch back relieves and press them apart. Stitch shoulder/side seams and press them apart.

 

6. Stitch sleeve seams and press them apart.

 

7. Stitch sleeves into armholes according to notches. Stitch shoulder pads in.

 

8. Stitch the collar to front part.

 

9. Stitch relives into lining details and neaten them. Stitch neckline facing to the lining. Center front part is like front bands. Stitch shoulder/side seams into lining and neaten them. Stitch sleeves in leaving a hole into sleeve seam.

 

10. Overstitch the jacket with the lining. (Overstitch on front part.) Stitch front edgings’ lower edges to front parts accurately along marked hem line. Cut seams of front edges’ lower corners. Topstitch front edge overstitching’s allowance on front edgings at closure segment. The stitch goes at 0.2 cm from the seam (stop 3 cm before neckline edge and lower corner). Turn front edgings right side out. Remove tacking.

 

11. Stitch the lining to jacket/sleeve hems. Turn the jacket right side out through sleeve hole. Stitch holes edges together.

 

12. Insert decorative rings into front parts.

 

13. Pull the cord into the collar and make gathering.