5601 OVERALL
YOU NEED: denim; fusing; 8 buttons; 2 clasps; elastic braid
of 3 cm width.
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3 cm for hem allowance, 2 cm for pocket’s upper edges.
NB!
Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen
width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget
about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Back part – 2
pieces
2. Front part – 2
pieces
3. Side front part –
2 pieces
4. Upper pocket –
1 piece
5. Upper front
part – 1 piece
6. Waistband – 1
piece
7. Back pocket – 2
pieces
8. Strap – 4
pieces
9. Back
closure facing – 4 pieces
10. Front
closure facing – 2 pieces
11. Upper front
part_2 – 1 piece
Lining:
12. Upper front
part – 1 piece
13. Upper back
part facing – 2 pieces
14. Side
pocket – 2 pieces
Fusing: flap, closure allowance.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the
fusing to wrong side of front/back closure parts.
2. Stitch darts
into upper front part, slash it and press apart.
3. Neaten
upper pocket along the contour. Fold pocket’s upper edge out and topstitch.
Press pocket’s lower/side edges into wrong side. Mark pocket’s place on upper
front part and stitch the pocket to marking.
4. Mark waistband’s place on upper front part. Lay
waistband’s upper edge on marking (right sides together). Stitch the waistband
to the detail and fold it downwards. Make topstitching at 0.5 cm from joining
seam.
5. Overstitch side pocket entrance (into front part)
with pocket lining and make topstitching. Lay pocket lining on side front part,
stitch edges together and neaten them. Fix side part to front part along 3 cm
stitch.
6. Neaten back pocket along the contour. Fold upper
edge out and topstitch. Press lower/side edges into wrong side. Mark pocket’s
place on back part and topstitch it to marking.
7. Neaten inseams and out seams. Stitch inseams and
out seams up to the notch. Press seams apart and neaten them.
8. Stitch flypiece edge, front edge and crotch long
edge, front edges and crotch seam and neaten them. Make another stitch along
crotch seam close to the stitch joining front/middle seams (flypiece edge is
free). Fold the flypiece into wrong side making a pleat. Make rounded
decorative stitch along the flypiece. Make decorative stitch along crotch seam.
9. Neaten front facing’s outer edge. Overstitch front
part’s side edge with front closure facing. Fix facing to front pants along
upper edge.
10. Stitch darts into front upper part lining. Lay
lining/fabric front upper parts right sides together and overstitch along
side/upper edges. Slash corners and turn the detail right side out. Press the
detail and make decorative stitch at 0.5 cm from side/upper edges.
11. Stitch upper front part to front pants’ upper
edge. Neaten joining seam and topstitch it on front upper part.
12. Lay back facings right sides together and overstitch
along upper/side lower edges. Slash corners, turn details right side out, press
and neaten facing’s free edge. Stitch back facing to back part’s side edge.
Topstitch front part on closure facing up to slit mark at 0.2 cm from the seam
joining back closure facing.
13. Lay straps right sides together and overstitch
along three edges, slash corners and turn them right side out. Press straps and
make decorative stitches at 0.5 cm from edges.
14. Neaten upper back part facing’s lower edges,
armholes and back armholes lower segment. Lay upper front part’s facing on back
part (pants) and overstitch armhole upper segment and upper edge inserting
straps. Fold the facing into wrong side, fold facing’s lower edges under and
topstitch. Make decorative topstitching along armholes upper segment and
facing’s upper edge. Fold
back facing’s free part under and topstitch.
15. Measure elastic braid in accordance with marks.
Fold braid’s edges under, lay it on pants’ upper part and topstitch stretching
the braid.
16. Neaten hems. Press hem allowances into wrong side and topstitch.
Neaten buttonholes into pants front part, measure and sew buttons on closure
facing. Sew buttons on upper front part’s upper part. Set clasps on straps.