YOU NEED: wool/semi-wool, fusing, separating zip (see
zip length on front part’s pattern), lining, shoulder pads.
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3 cm for
garment/sleeve hems.
NB!
Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen
width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget
about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Center back part – 2 pieces
2. Side back part – 2 pieces
3. Front part – 2 pieces
4. Side front part – 2 pieces
5. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
6. Front band – 2 pieces
7. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
8. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
9. Outer collar – 1 piece
10. Inner collar – 1 piece
11. Off-set welt – 2 pieces
Lining:
1. Center
back part – 2 pieces
2. Side back part – 2 pieces
3. Front part – 2 pieces (excluding front band width)
4. Side front part – 2 pieces
5. Upper
sleeve – 2 pieces
6. Lower
sleeve – 2 pieces
7. Pocket
– 4 pieces
Fusing: front
band, back neckline facing, outer collar, off-set welt.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong
side of front band, back neckline facing, outer collar, off-set welt.
2. Fold
the welt along the center wrong side out, then overstitch ends. Cut allowances
in corners and turn the detail right side out. Press off-set welt. Stitch
pocket lining to the welt.
3. Neaten
front relieves at pocket entrance segment. Lay the sacking on side front part’s
right side. Lay the sacking with off-set welt on center front part, right sides
together, according to notches. Stitch the sacking to pocket entrance
allowance. Fold the sacking sidewise and topstitch the allowance at 0.2 cm from
the seam.
4. Stitch
front relieves up to the notch. Stitch the sacking. Press relieve allowances
toward center and press the sacking. Neaten the sacking. Topstitch off-set
welt’s short edges on side front part.
5. Stitch
back middle seam and press it apart. Stitch back relieves and press them apart.
6. Lay
front parts right sides together, make edges equal measuring front edgings’
length. Stitch the zipper to front edgings. Press front edging under at zipper
segment.
7. Lay
collars together and overstitch along the contour. Slash corners and turn them
right side out. Press
the collar.
8. Pin front band to front part right sides together and overstitch
along front edgings. (Overstitching goes upwards on front part’s side.) Stitch front bands’ hems to center front part along
hem allowance line. Cut front edging’s lower corners’ seams. Turn front edgings
right side out and press seams.
9. Stitch side/shoulder seams and press them apart.
10. Stitch
shoulder edges of back neckline facing/front bands and neaten them. Overstitch
back/front neckline. Fold facing into wrong side, press seams.
11. Stitch
elbow seam and press it apart. Press sleeve hems under. Stitch sleeve front
seam and press it apart.
12. Stitch sleeve into armholes according to notches.
Stitch shoulder pads in.
13. Stitch lining details together and stitch sleeves in leaving a hole into sleeve’s front right seam.
14. Stitch
the lining to inner edges of front bands/back neckline facing. Fix allowances
of collar/facing neckline together.
15. Stitch the lining to jacket/sleeve hems. Turn the jacket right side out though the hole in the sleeve. Stitch hole’s edges together.
16. Make decorative stitch along the zipper at 0.5 cm distance.