5615 BLOUSE WITH GATHERED RELIEVES

 

YOU NEED: linen/cotton with synthetic fiber; fusing; 8 buttons.

 

NB: take tinsel fabric to make pleats more effective.

 

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.

 

SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 2 cm for hem allowance.

 

NB! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

 

WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!

 

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Center front part – 2 pieces

2. Center back part – 1 piece

3. Side front part – 2 pieces

4. Side back part – 2 pieces

5. Sleeve – 2 pieces

6. Cuff – 4 pieces

7. Placket – 2 pieces

8. Collar – 2 pieces

 

Fusing: outer collar, placket, cuffs.

 

INSTRUCTIONS:

 

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of the placket, cuffs and outer collar.

 

2. Lay outer collar on the inner one right sides together and overstitch. Turn the collar right side out slashing corners. Press the collar.

 

3. Male loose stitches along center/side front parts and gather them. Adjust the gathering equally. Stitch front relieve with two stitches. Remove gathering threads. Neaten front relieve seams.

 

4. Stitch back relieves and neaten them. Press seams towards the center.

 

5. Stitch side/shoulder edges. Neaten seams and press them backwards.

 

6. Press one of placket’s edges into wrong side. Adjust placket edge go front part’s edge and stitch them together. Overstitch placket’s upper corner up to the mark of stitching. Slash the neckline, then fold it into wrong side and press. Fold placket’s pressed edge under and topstitch along joining seam.

 

7. Stitch outer collar into neckline. Fold inner collar’s edge under and topstitch along the seam joining outer collar.

 

8. Neaten sleeve seams. Make loose stitches along sleeve hems and gather sleeve hem according to cuff lengths (see gathered sleeve’s length on the pattern). Make the gathering equal along the thread.

 

9. Fold cuffs right sides together and overstitch along three edges. Turn the cuff right side out slashing corners.

 

10. Stitch sleeve seam up to the slit mark. Press allowances apart. Topstitch slits at 01-0.2 cm from edges. Stitch inner cuff to the sleeve. Fold free edge under and topstitch along the seam joining inner collar. Stitch sleeves into armholes. Neaten joining seams.

 

11. Neaten blouse hem. Fold the hem into wrong side and topstitch.

 

12. Make buttonholes into right placket, sew buttons on the left one. Make buttonholes into cuffs, sew buttons and fold cuffs upwards.