YOU NEED: middle/high stretchable jersey (natural or mixed),
decorative braid (for a coulisse).
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 0.5 cm for the hem/sleeve hems, 1.5 cm
for front center segment between notches, 1 cm for other seams.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lays them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you
need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Back part – 1 piece
2. Right front part – 1 piece
3. Left front part – 1 piece
4. Sleeve – 2 pieces
5. Placket – 1 piece
Our advice: stitch jersey details with
special elastic/zig-zag stitches. If you use an overlock, cut seam allowances
till 0.6-0.8 cm width. Topstitch hem allowances with double needle to save
elasticity.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Neaten placket’s long edges, press them into wrong
side and topstitch. Join marks on the placket with straight lines. Make loose
stitches along these lines as well as along short edges, and then gather.
2. Stitch front parts’ allowances into central edge at
marks. Neaten the segment between notches, press it into wrong side and
topstitch along allowances’ edges.
3. Lay front parts right sides together and insert the
placket between them. NB: the placket lies at 1.2 cm from neckline edge
and at 1 cm from stitches allowances. Stitch front center segment between the
neckline and the notch. Neaten the seam and press it. Neaten the segment
between the notch and the hem, press it and topstitch.
4. Stitch sleeves to back part. Neaten seams and press
them.
5. Lay sleeves on front part right sides together. Insert
the placket between their left parts. NB: the placket lies at 1.2 cm
from neckline edge and at 3-4 cm from armhole edge. Stitch sleeves to front
part. Neaten seams and press them.
6. Stitch sleeve edge and side edge with one seam.
Neaten seams and press them.
7. Neaten neckline edge. Press it into wrong side and
topstitch.
8. Neaten the hem/sleeve hems with narrow zigzag
stitch.
9. Pull the coulisse as shown, and then gather.
10. Fix the placket to front/back raglan seams with 1
cm stitch.