See details for work with faux fur at How to use the
CD.
YOU NEED: faux leather; lining;
fusing; 1 separable zipper.
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCES: 1 cm for all seams, 4 cm for the
hem/sleeve hems.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Leather:
1. Outer stand-up collar – 1 piece
2. Inner
stand-up collar – 1 piece
3. Center
back part – 2 pieces
4. Side
back part – 2 pieces
5. Side
front part – 2 pieces
6. Center front
part – 2 pieces
7. Front
band – 2 pieces
8. Upper
sleeve – 2 pieces
9. Lower
sleeve – 2 pieces
10. Back
neckline facing – 1 piece
Lining:
1. Center back part – 2 pieces
2. Side back part – 2 pieces
3. Center front part – 2 pieces
4. Side front part – 2 pieces
5. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
6. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
NB: when cutting lining front/back pieces, do
not take into account front bands/back neckline facing widths correspondingly.
Fusing: front
bands, stand-up collars, back neckline facing.
NB: please try faux-leather details of unneeded material
before you double them of the leather.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong
side of front bands, stand-up collars and back neckline facing.
2. Stitch
front waist darts. Stitch back shoulder darts. Slash darts’ depths.
3. Stitch
front relieves.
4. Stitch
back relieves. Stitch middle back edges.
5. Stitch
shoulder/side edges. Stitch outer stand-up collar into front/back necklines.
Stitch front neckline dart and stand-up collar with one seam.
6. Lay
front parts right sides together and adjust edges measuring front edgings’
lengths. Lay the zipper on front part right sides together; zipper teeth align
with seam marked line (zipper braid is on allowances), then tack.
7. Stitch
sleeve elbow/front edges. Press sleeve hem into wrong side. Stitch sleeves into
armholes according to notches.
8. Stitch front
bands/facings shoulder edges and press them apart. Stitch inner stand-up into
the neckline. Stitch lining pieces together, then stitch sleeves in leaving a
hole into sleeve right front seam. Press lining allowances. Stitch the lining
to front bands’s inner edges and to the facing.
9. Pin the front band with lining on front part right
sides together, then overstitch lower corner/front edge/stand-up’s upper edge
(catching the zipper) with one seam. Cut front edging’s upper/lower corner
seams. Turn front edgings right side out. Make decorative stitch along front
edgings/stand-up’s upper edge at 0.5 cm distance.
10. Press jacket’s
hem into wrong side. Overstitch the hem/sleeve hems with the lining. Turn the
jacket right side out through sleeve hole, stitch hole’s edges together.