5703 JACKET WITH BELT
See details for work with faux fur at How to use the
CD.
YOU NEED: faux leather; lining, 4 buttons, a clasp.
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Faux leather:
1. Back part – 1 piece
2. Front
part – 2 pieces
3. Sleeve
– 2 pieces
4. Cuff –
2 pieces
5. Belt –
1 piece
6. Belt
loop – 1 piece
7. Back
neckline facing – 1 piece
8. Front
band – 2 pieces
9. Outer
collar – 1 piece
10. Inner
collar – 1 piece
11. Pocket
– 1 piece
12. Flap –
1 piece
Lining:
1. Back part – 1 piece
2. Front
part – 2 pieces
3. Sleeve
– 2 pieces
4. Pocket
– 1 piece
5. Flap –
1 piece
NB: when cutting lining front/back pieces,
do not take into account front bands/back neckline facing widths
correspondingly. When cutting lining sleeves, do not take into account cuff
width.
NB: please try faux-leather details of unneeded material
before you double them of the leather.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Lay flaps
right sides together, then overstitch along 3 edges. Cut flap corners’
allowances and turn the detail right side out. Press seams. Neaten flap’s free
edge. Make a buttonhole as marked.
2. Stitch
pocket lining to one-piece facing of pocket upper edge leaving a 5-cm segment
at seam middle (to turn the pocket right side out). Overstitch pocket
side/lower edges with the lining. Turn the pocket right side out, them press.
Make decorative stitch at 3 cm from pocket upper edge stitching the hole. Mark
upper pocket place on front part, them stitch the pocket. Stitch the flap on
front part, fold it under, then topstitch.
3. Lay
outer collar on inner one, then overstitch. Cut seams at corners, turn the
collar right side out, then press.
4. Lay front band on front part right sides together,
them overstitch along front edging. Overstitching goes at front part up to the
notch defining collar stitching-in end. Cut front edging upper corners’ seams.
Turn front edgings right side out.
5. Stitch
shoulder seams, press them apart.
6.
Stitch shoulder edges of back neckline facing and front bands. Press seams
apart. Insert the collar between the jacket and front bands. Stitch inner
collar into jacket neckline, stitch outer collar into facing/front bands
neckline. Press inner/outer collar joining seams’ allowances apart. Fold front
bands into wrong side. Coincide seams. Make topstitching on outer collar
strictly along the seam joining the collar to the neckline.
7. Stitch
armholes into open armholes.
8. Stitch
sleeve edge/side edge with one seam., press allowances apart.
9. Fold
belt loop in 3 layers then stitch. Cut the loops into 2 pieces. Sew belt loops
to side seams as marked.
10. Stitch a cuff as a ring, press the seam apart. Stitch the cuff to
sleeve hem. Turn details right side out, then press.
11. Stitch lining details excluding a segment into sleeve left seam (to turn
the garment right side out). Lay the lining on the garment right sides together
and stitch to front bands’ inner edges and to back neckline facing. Overstitch
front edging’s lower corner. Cut front edging lower corners’ seam. Stitch
sleeve lining to the cuff.
12. Stitch the lining to jacket hem. Turn the jacket right side out
through sleeve hole, stitch hole’s edges together.
13. Fold the belt along the center wrong side out, overstitch along edges
leaving 7-10 cm hole In the middle of long edge. Turn the detail right side
out, then press. Make decorative stitching along contour at0.5 cm distance
stitching the hole. Set the clasp.
14. Make buttonholes into right front edging, sew
buttons on the left on. NB: make buttonholes into both front lapels.