See details for work with faux fur at How to use the
CD.
YOU NEED: faux leather; lining;
fusing; 1 separable zipper; a snap.
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCES: 1 cm for all seams, 4 cm for sleeve
hems.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Leather:
1. Stand-up collar – 1 piece
2. Back
part – 2 pieces
3. Back
yoke_1 – 2 pieces
4. Back
yoke_2 – 2 pieces
5. Back
yoke_3 – 2 pieces
6. Front
part – 2 pieces
7. Front
yoke_1 – 2 pieces
8. Front
yoke_2 – 2 pieces
9. Front
yoke_3 – 2 pieces
10. Back
waistband – 2 pieces
11. Front
waistband – 4 pieces
12. Upper sleeve
– 2 pieces
13. Lower
sleeve – 2 pieces
14. Front
band – 2 pieces
15. Back
neckline facing – 1 piece
Lining:
1. Back part – 2 pieces
2. Front part – 2 pieces
3. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
4. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusing: front
band, front/back waistband, stand-up collar.
NB: please try faux-leather details of unneeded material
before you double them of the leather.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong
side of front band, front/back waistband and stand-up collar.
2. Stitch front
upper darts. Slash depths, fold them downward and topstitch.
3. Stitch
front yoke_1 to front yoke_2, topstitch seam allowances on yoke_1. Stitch front
yoke_3 to front yoke_2, topstitch seam allowances on yoke_2. Stitch the whole
yoke to front part, topstitch seam allowances on the yoke.
4. Stitch
back yoke_1 to back yoke_2, topstitch seam allowances on yoke_1. Stitch back
yoke_3 to back yoke_2, topstitch seam allowances on yoke_2. Stitch the whole
yoke to back part, topstitch seam allowances on the yoke. Stitch middle back
edges, fold seam allowances leftward, then topstitch.
5. Mark
zipper closures on patch pockets. Cut slits according to marks, make diagonal slits
at 1-1.5 cm from closure ends. Fold allowances into wrong side, lay the zipper
under slit allowances with its teeth visible, then topstitch along the
perimeter at 0.2 cm from edges. Fold flap pocket’s edges into wrong side and
topstitch on front parts/left sleeve according to marks.
6. Stitch
shoulder/side edges. Lay seams apart and paste them.
7. Stitch
front waistbands to back ones. Lay seams apart and paste them. Stitch outer
waistband to jacket hem. Fold seam allowances downwards, then topstitch.
8. Lay
front parts right sides together and adjust edges measuring front edgings’
lengths. Stitch the zipper to front edgings.
9. Lay the
stand-up collar along the center wrong side out. Overstitch shoulder
edge/shaped edge up to the first mark. Cut corner allowances. Turn the stand-up
right side out. Make decorative stitch along the edge.
10. Tack
the stand-up into jacket’s neckline.
11. Stitch
elbow edge. Fold the seam upward, then topstitch/ Press sleeve hem into wrong
side. Stitch sleeve front edge folding hem allowance out. Stitch sleeves into
armholes according to notches. Fold seam allowances toward the garment, then
topstitch.
12. Stitch front
bands/facing shoulder edges and press them apart. Stitch lining pieces together
and stitch sleeves in leaving a hole in a sleeve right seam. Press lining
allowances into wrong side. Stitch the lining to front bands’ inner edges and
to the facing. Stitch lower waistband to the lining.
13. Pin ready lining to the jacket right sides together
and overstitch the hem/front edgings with one seam as well as stitch the
stand-up collar in. Overstitch sleeve hems with the lining. Turn the jacket
tight side out through sleeve hole. Stitch hole edges together. Make decorative
stitch along the zipper/the hem. Divide lower waistband into three pieces and
topstitch them as shown.
14. Set a snap into the stand-up collar.