See details for work with faux fur at How to use the
CD.
YOU NEED: faux leather; lining; fusing; 2 buttons.
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCES: 4.5
for the hem/sleeve hems, 1 cm for other seams.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Leather:
1. Side upper front part – 2 pieces
2. Side
upper back part – 2 pieces
3. Center upper back part – 2 pieces
4. Center
upper front part – 2 pieces
5. Lower back part – 1 piece
6. Lower front part – 2 pieces
7. Outer collar – 1 piece
8. Inner collar – 1 piece
9. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
10. Lower
sleeve – 2 pieces
11.
Off-set welt – 2 pieces
12.
Valance – 2 pieces
13. Front
band – 2 pieces
14. Back
neckline facing – 1 piece
Lining:
1. Side upper front part – 2 pieces
2. Side
upper back part – 2 pieces
3. Center upper back part – 2 pieces
4. Center
upper front part – 2 pieces
5. Lower back part – 1 piece
6. Lower front part – 2 pieces
7. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
8. Lower
sleeve – 2 pieces
9. Small sacking – 2 pieces
10. Large sacking - 2 pieces
Fusing: front
bands, outer collar, back neckline facing.
NB: please try faux-leather details of unneeded material
before you double them of the leather.
NB: when cutting lining front/back pieces,
do not take into account front bands/back neckline facing widths
correspondingly.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong
side of front bands, outer collar and back neckline facing.
2. Stitch
upper front relieves. Press seams toward front center and make decorative
stitching at 0.1-0.2 cm from the seam.
3. Stitch
upper back relieves. Press seams toward back center and topstitch them.
4. Stitch
upper back middle edges. Press seams, then topstitch.
5.
Topstitch the valance on large sacking. Lay large sacking on upper front part
right sides together coinciding notches, then stitch the segment between
notches. Press the off-set welt along the center right side out. Stitch small
sacking to welt’s inner side. Lay the welt with the sacking on lower front part
right sides together. Stitch the welt with the sacking along horizontal edge.
Cut welt joining seam’s allowance (lower front part) between the corner and
joining line. Fold the welt with the sacking out and press them. Stitch welt’s
ends to lower front part. Make decorative stitch along welt joining line.
Stitch upper front/lower front parts right sides together. Press the seam
upward and topstitch it. Stitch sackings.
6. Stitch
front bands to front parts. Press the seam toward front part and make 2
decorative stitches: at 0.1 cm from and seam and at 0.7 cm from the seam. Fold
front band into wrong side making front placket. Overstitch lapel’s edge
between the corner and the notch pointing collar stitching-in end. Cut seams in
front edging’s upper corners. Turn front edgings right side out.
7. Stitch
upper back/lower back parts. Press the seam upwards and topstitch it.
8. Stitch jacket shoulder/side edges. Press seams backward and topstitch
them.
9. Lay
outer collar on the inner one and overstitch them. Cut seams in corners, turn
the collar right side out, then press it.
10. Stitch
back neckline facing/front bands shoulder edges. Stitch outer collar into
facing’s/front bands’ neckline between transverse mark and the corner; slash
seam allowance in corners, then stitch collar’s lengthwise edge in. Stitch
inner collar into jacket’s neckline. Press seam allowances apart. Fold front
bands/facing into wrong side, coincide collars’ joining seams accurately and
make a stitch along outer collar joining seam.
11.
Stitch the elbow edge. Press the seam and topstitch it. Press sleeve hem into
wrong side, then return hem allowance. Stitch sleeve front edge and press it.
12. Stitch sleeves into armholes according to notches.
13. Stitch lining pieces and stitch sleeves in leaving
a hole into sleeve right front seam.
14. Stitch
the lining to front bands/back neckline facing inner edges. Overstitch front
edgings’ lower corners. Cut seams into front edgings’ lower corners.
15.
Stitch the lining to jacket’s hem/sleeve hems. Turn the jacket right side out
through sleeve hole. Stitch hole edges together. Make decorative stitch along
front edgings/collar at 0.1 cm distance.
16. Make
buttonholes into right front edging, sew buttons to left one.