See details for work with faux fur at How to use the
CD.
YOU NEED: faux suede, faux leather;
lining; fusing; 9 buttons.
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEA ALLOWANCES: 1 cm for all seams, 4 cm for hem
allowance.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Suede:
1. Center
back part – 2 pieces
2. Side back
part – 2 pieces
3. Side
front part – 2 pieces
4. Center front
part – 2 pieces
5. Upper
sleeve – 2 pieces
6. Lower
sleeve – 2 pieces
Leather:
1.
Stand-up collar – 2 pieces
2. Back yoke
– 1 piece
3. Cuff –
2 pieces
4.
Waistband – 1 piece
5. Back
neckline facing – 1 piece
Lining:
1. Back
yoke – 1 piece
2. Center back part – 2 pieces
3. Side back part – 2 pieces
4. Center front part – 2 pieces
5. Side front part – 2 pieces
6. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
7. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
NB: when cutting lining front/back pieces,
do not take into account front bands/back neckline facing widths
correspondingly.
Fusing: front bands,
stand-up collar, back neckline facing.
NB: please try faux-leather details of unneeded material
before you double them of the leather.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong
side of front bands, stand-up collar and back neckline facing.
2. Lay
stand-ups right sides together and overstitch them along outer contour. Slash
corners, then turn them right side out. Press the stand-up collar.
3. Stitch
middle back edges. Stitch the seam apart at 0.2 cm. Stitch back relieves,
stitch seams apart. Stitch back yoke to back part. Fold the seam toward the
yoke, then topstitch. Stitch front relieves. Stitch seams apart.
4. Stitch
side edges. Press waistband’s long edges into wrong side, then topstitch on
back/front parts and front bands according to marks.
5. Stitch
shoulder edges.
6. Tack
the stand-up into front/back necklines.
7. Stitch
elbow edges. Fold seam allowances upwards, then topstitch. Stitch sleeve front
edges. Lay seam allowances apart and paste them. Press the cuff along the
center right side out. Lay the cuff flat and stitch it as a ring. Stitch outer
cuff to sleeve hem. Fold seam allowances toward the cuff and topstitch them.
Stitch sleeves into armholes according to notches. Fold seam allowances toward
the garment and topstitch them.
8. Stitch
front bands’/facing’s shoulder edges. Fold front bands into front parts’ right
side and overstitch them along the neckline stitching the stand-up collar.
Stitch front bands’ lower edges to front part accurately along marked hem line.
Turn front edgings right side out, press seams.
9. Stitch
lining pieces and stitch sleeves in leaving a hole into sleeve right front
seam. Press lining seam allowances. Stitch the lining to front bands’ inner
edges and to the facing.
10. Press jacket hem
into wrong side. Overstitch jacket/sleeve hems with the lining. Turn the
garment right side out through sleeve hole. Stitch hole edges together.
11. Make decorative
stitching along the hem/front edgings/stand-up’s perimeter. Make buttonholes
into right front edging/stand-up collar, sew buttons on left ones. Sew also
decorative buttons to right front edging.