You need: tweed
(or natural/mixed fabric suitable for costumes); lining, fusing, 5 buttons.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCES: 1.5
cm for all seams.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES THEY MUST BE
COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Back part 1
piece
2. Front part 2
pieces
3. Sleeve 2 pieces
4. Stand-up 2
pieces
5. Front band 2
pieces
6. Back neckline
facing 1 piece
Lining:
1. Back part 1
piece
2. Front part 2
pieces
3. Sleeve 2 pieces
Fusing:
1. Stand-up collar
1 piece
2. Front band 2
pieces
3. Back neckline
facing 1 piece
NB: when
cutting lining front/back pieces, do not take into account front
bands/back neckline facing widths correspondingly.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing
to wrong side of front bands, back neckline facing and outer stand-up collar.
2. Lay stand-ups
right sides together and overstitch along three edges. Slash seam allowances in
corners, turn the detail right side out and press it.
3. Stitch shoulder
edges. Press seam allowances apart.
4. Stitch sleeves to
front/back parts. Press seam allowances toward sleeves.
5. Stitch shoulder
edges of front bands and facings. Press seam allowances apart.
Stitch lining pieces together
leaving a hole into sleeve right front seam (to turn the garment right side out).
Stitch the lining to
front bands/back neckline facing.
Lay front bands with
the lining on the mantle wrong sides out, insert ready stand-up collar between
them, then overstitch along front edging, neckline and hem.
Slash rounded
allowances, cut corners, turn the garment right side out, then press.
Sew technological
hole.
Make decorative
stitch along front edging/stand-up collar.
6. Cut four fabric
quadrates of 4x9 cm. Apply the fusing, neaten along perimeter. Lay them on slit
marking right sides together, then stitch along marking (the mantle is already
with the lining, stitch it through). Slit the fabric between stitches as for
slit pocket. Make diagonal slashes at 1-1.5 cm from short edges. Turn the
facing into wrong side trough this hole. Make decorative/fixing stitch along
edges of this hole.
7. Make buttonholes
into right front part, sew buttons to left one.