You need: soft
fabric suitable for coats; lining, fusing, 3 buttons
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCES: 3 cm for
hem allowances, 1.5 cm for front/back shaped edges, 1 cm for other seams.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE
COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Front part – 2
pieces
2. Back part – 1
piece
3. Back sleeve – 2 pieces
4. Front sleeve - 2
pieces
5. Collar – 2 pieces
6. Stand-up collar –
2 pieces
7. Front band – 2
pieces
8. Back neckline
facing – 1 piece
Lining:
1. Front part – 2
pieces
2. Back part – 2
pieces – 1 äåòàëü
3. Back sleeve – 2
pieces
4. Front sleeve – 2
pieces
Fusing:
1. Back neckline
facing – 1 piece
2. Front band – 2
pieces
3. Collar – 1 piece
4. Stand-up collar –
1 piece
NB: when
cutting lining front/back pieces, do not take into account front bands/back
neckline facing widths correspondingly.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apple the fusing to
wrong side of the collar/stand-up collar/front bands/back neckline facing.
2. Stitch front upper
darts. Press darts upwards.
3. Stitch front
shaped edges excluding a segment between marks. Neaten seams and press them
apart. Stitch back shaped edges. Neaten seams and press them apart.
4. Lay front band on
front part right sides together, then overstitch along front edging.
Overstitching goes at front part side up to the notch pointing collar stitching
end. Stitch front bands’ hems to front parts along marked hem line strictly.
Cut seams into upper/lower corners of front edging. Turn front edgings right
side out.
5. Stitch shoulder
seams. Neaten seams and press them apart. Make decorative stitching on sleeves
at 1 cm from seams along front/back shaped seams.
6. Lay collars right
sides together. Overstitch collar ends and collar fall. Cut the seam Turn the
collar right side out, the press. Lay stand-up collars right sides together,
insert ready collar between them, make notches equal, then stitch together
overstitching stand-up ends. Turn the stand-up collar right side out, then
press it.
7. Stitch shoulder
edges of back neckline facing and front band. Neaten seams and press them
apart.
8. Lay front bands on
the garment right sides together. Insert the stand-up collar between them.
Overstitch the neckline stitching the stand-up collar. Fold front bands and the
facing into right side and press them.
9. Neaten the hem and
press it under. Sew the hem with blind stitches.
10. Stitch lining
details together in the same way as fabrics. Lay the lining on the garment
right sides together, then stitch to front bands’ inner edges/back neckline
facing at 10 cm from the hem line. Stitch the lining to front parts’ slits.
Adjust lining hem to garment hem. Fold lining hem twice and topstitch it.
Stitch the rest of the lining to front band. Neaten the seam. Sew slit
allowances to main pieces by hand or fix them with glue net.
11. Make decorative
stitching at 1 cm from the edge along front edging and the collar.
12. Make buttonholes
into right front part, sew buttons to the left one.