You need:
natural/mixed fabric suitable for costumes, long-haired faux fur; fusing,
lining, zipper, thin cord, 5 small buttons (to fasten fur collar)
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm
for all seams. 3 cm for garment/sleeve hems.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE
COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Stand-up collar –
2 pieces
2. Center back part –
2 pieces
3. Side back part – 2
pieces
4. Side front part –
2 pieces
5. Center front part
– 2 pieces
6. Back sleeve – 2
pieces
7. Front sleeve – 2
pieces
8. Back neckline
facing – 1 piece
9. Front band – 2
pieces
10. Sacking – 2
pieces
Lining:
1. Center back part –
2 pieces
2. Side back part – 2
pieces
3. Center front part
– 2 pieces
4. Side front part –
2 pieces
5. Back sleeve – 2
pieces
6. Front sleeve – 2
pieces
7. Sacking – 2 pieces
8. Stand-up collar –
1 piece
Fur:
1. Stand-up collar –
1 piece
Fusing: center
front part, front bands, stand-up collar, back neckline facing.
NB: when
cutting lining front/back pieces, do not take into account front
bands/back neckline facing widths correspondingly.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing
to wrong side of center front parts, front bands, stand-up collar, back
neckline facing.
2. Stitch upper edges
of fabric sleeves. Stitch upper edges of lining sleeves. Slash seam allowances
and press them apart. Press sleeve hem into wrong side. Overstitch sleeve hem
with lining. Adjust fabric and lining edges, then process the sleeve as one
piece.
3. Lay fabric sacking
on side front part’s right side according to notches, then stitch. Lay lining
sacking’s right side on center front part, then stitch.
4. Stitch middle back
edge. Press seams apart.
5. Stitch center front
/back parts’ shoulder edges. Stitch side front/back part’s shoulder edges.
Press seam allowances apart.
6. Stitch
strengthened stand-up collar into the neckline. Press seam allowances and press
them apart.
7. Lay front parts
right sides together, adjust edges and measure front edgings’ length. Stitch
the zipper to front edging and stand-up collar.
8. Stitch front/back
shaped edges with one seam inserting ready sleeve between them and stitching
sackings at the same time. Press seam allowances toward front/back parts’
middle correspondingly. Stitch side edges. Press seam allowances apart.
9. Stitch shoulder
edges of front band and facing, them press them apart. Stitch stand-up collar
without fusing into the neckline. Lay front band on front part right sides
together, adjust edges, then overstitch front edging and stand-up collar’s
upper edge with one seam. Cut seams into corners, slash roundings.
10. Stitch lining
pieces together leaving a hole into left side seam (to turn the garment right
side out). Press lining seam allowances. Stitch the lining to front bands’
inner edges and to back neckline facing.
Press armhole
allowances (fabric and lining) into wrong side. Lay fabric and lining armholes
together and topstitch at 0.1 cm from the edge.
Overstitch front
edging’s lower corners, cut allowances. Overstitch garment hem with the lining.
Turn the garment right side out, then press.
Sew technological hole.
Make decorative stitch
along the zipper and collar perimeter.
11. Detachable collar.
Cut a cord into 5 pieces and make 5 loops. Tack loop ends to stand-up collar’s
upper edge above the middle, shoulder edges and at 1 cm from the front edge.
Lay the lining and fur stand-up collar right sides together, then overstitch
along the contour excluding a short segment into lower seam. Slash rounded
allowances, cut corners. Turn the stand-up collar right side out. Sew technological
hole.
Lay fur collar to
mantle stand-up collar and mark button places (from within) according to loops.
Sew buttons.