You need: fabric
suitable for costume; fusing, lining, 6 buttons.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE
IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCES: 1 cm
for all seams. 3 cm for garment/sleeve hems.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES THEY MUST BE
COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Stand-up collar
2 pieces
2. Collar 2 pieces
3. Center back part
2 pieces
4. Side back part 2
pieces
5. Side front part
2 pieces
6. Center front part
2 pieces
7. Upper sleeve 2 pieces
8. Lower sleeve 2 pieces
9. Back neckline
facing 1 piece
10. Off-set welt 2
pieces
Lining:
1. Center back part
2 pieces
2. Side back part 2
pieces
3. Center front part
2 pieces
4. Side front part
2 pieces
5. Upper sleeve 2
pieces
6. Lower sleeve 2
pieces
NB: when
cutting lining front/back pieces, do not take into account front
bands/back neckline facing widths correspondingly. Before cutting sleeve
lining, join upper sleeve and lower sleeve.
Fusing: center
front part with one-piece front band, stand-up collar, collar, back neckline
facing, off-set welt.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing
to wrong side of center front part with one-piece front band, stand-up collar,
collar, back neckline facing, off-set welt.
2. Lay collars right
sides together and overstitch along contour. Slash, turn collar corners right
side out. Press the collar. Stitch stand-up collars together inserting the
collar. Turn the detail right side out and press it.
3. Lay the off-set
welt along the center wrong side out, then overstitch along short edges. Cut
corner seam allowances, turn the welt right side out and press it. Make
decorative stitch along short and one of long edges.
4. Stitch back
shoulder darts. Press them to back center. Cut front waist darts depth along
the center, insert the welt according to marks, then stitch. Cut extra fabric
of darts, press to front middle.
5. Stitch front
shaped edges. Press seam allowances to front center. Stitch back shaped edges.
Press seam allowances to back center. Stitch middle back edge. Press seam
allowances leftward.
6. Fold one-piece
front band into right side, then overstitch upper corner between front edging
and middle line. Cut corner seam allowances, turn front edging right side out,
then press it.
7. Stitch
shoulder/side edges. Press seam allowances apart.
8. Stitch upper
sleeve and lower sleeve. Press seam allowances upward. Stitch sleeve edges,
press seam allowances apart. Stitch sleeves into armholes according to notches.
9. Stitch shoulder
edges of front band and facing, then press them apart. Lay the facing on the
garment right sides together; insert the collar and overstitch the neckline.
Stitch lining pieces together, stitch sleeves in leaving a hole into sleeve
right front seam. Press lining seam allowances. Stitch the lining to inner
edges of front bands and to the facing. Overstitch lower edge, cut seam
allowances. Make decorative stitching along front edging and the collar.
10. Press jacket/sleeve
hems into wrong side. Overstitch hems with the lining. Turn the garment right
side out through the hole into the sleeve. Stitch the hole.
11. Make buttonholes
into right front part, sew buttons as marked.