You need: soft
fabric suitable for coat; lining, fusing, 3 buttons.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCES: 4.5
cm for the hem, 1 cm for other seams.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE
COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Back part – 1
piece
2. Front part – 2
pieces
3. Sleeve – 2 pieces
4. Back neckline
facing – 1 piece
5. Front band – 2
pieces
6. Outer collar – 1
piece
7. Inner collar – 1
piece
8. Cuff – 2 pieces
Lining:
1. Back part – 1
piece
2. Front part – 2
pieces
3. Sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusing:
1. Front band – 2
pieces
2. Back neckline
facing – 1 piece
3. Outer collar – 1
piece
4. Cuff – 2 pieces
NB: when
cutting lining front/back pieces, do not take into account front
bands/back neckline facing widths correspondingly. When cutting lining sleeves,
please do not tack into account cuff width.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing
to wrong side of front bands, back neckline facing, collar and cuff.
2. Lay collars right
sides together. Overstitch collar ends and collar fall; begin and finish at the
line of collar stitching. Turn the collar right side out and press it.
3. Lay front band on
front part right sides together, then overstitch along front edging.
Overstitching goes at front part, between the hem and the notch pointing the
end of collar joining. Cut seams into front edging’s upper corners. Turn front
edgings into right side.
4. Stitch shoulder
edges, press seams apart.
5. Stitch shoulder
edges of back neckline facing and front band. Press seams apart. Insert the
collar between the jacket and front bands. Stitch inner collar into jacket
neckline, stitch outer collar into facing/front bands necklines. Press
allowances of seams joining inner/outer collars. Fold front bands/facing into
wrong side, stitch allowances of collar joining close to seams.
6. Stitch sleeves
into open armholes. Press seams toward sleeves. Stitch sleeve edge and side
edge with one seam. Press seams part.
7. Stitch a cuff as a
ring. Press the seam apart. Lay the cuff on the sleeve right sides together.
Stitch the cuff to sleeve hem. Fold the cuff into the sleeve and press it.
8. Stitch lining
pieces leaving a segment in sleeve left seam (to turn the garment right side
out). Lay the lining on the jacket right sides together and stitch the lining
to front bands’ inner edges and to back neckline facing. Overstitch front
edgings’ lower corner. Cut seams of front edging’s lower corner.
9. Stitch the lining
to jacket hem. Turn the jacket through the hole in the sleeve, stitch the hole.
10. Make decorative
stitch at 1 cm from the edge along front edging, collar, sleeve hem. Make
decorative stitch along the seam joining sleeve lining and the cuff. Make decorative
stitch along front parts along marking parallel to front edge line.
11. Make buttonholes
into right front part, sew buttons on the left one.