YOU NEED: natural/mixed fabric suitable for costumes; fusing; lining; shoulder pads; decorative wide braid; 3 buttons; sheer fusing.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCES: 1 cm for all seams, 3 cm for hems.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Center back part – 2 pieces
2. Side back part – 2 pieces
3. Side front part – 2 pieces
4. Center front part – 2 pieces
5. Front band – 2 pieces
6. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
7. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
8. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
9. Cuff – 2 pieces
10. Off-set welt – 2 pieces
Lining:
1. Center back part – 2 pieces
2. Side back part – 2 pieces
3. Side front part – 2 pieces
4. Center front part – 2 pieces
5. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
6. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
NB: please do not take into account neckline/front band facings' width when cutting lining front/back parts correspondingly.
Fusing: front bands, back neckline facing, center front part, side front part, off-set welt.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front bands, back neckline facing, center front part and side front part.
2. Stitch front figure edges. Press front figure seams apart.
3. Cut fabric valances with length equal to pocket entrance length+1.5-2 cm and of 4 cm width. Mark upper pocket places. Apply the fusing to wrong side of pocket entrance. Press the welt along the center right side out. Stitch the welt to front part along pocket lower marking. Stitch the valance to front part along pocket upper marking. Stop stitching at short marking lines. Check if the welt and the valance are correctly stitched (stitches on the strong side must be parallel). Cut the pocket entrance. Make diagonal cuts at 1-1.5 cm from pocket end. Turn the welt and the valance into wrong side through this hole, make welt’s ends to set welt’s fold close to the seam joining the valance. Fix pocket ends with double reverse stitches (wrong side) along corner base. Topstitch the welt on the valance along joining seam.
4. Stitch middle back seam and press it apart. Stitch back figure seams and press them apart. Stitch shoulder/side seams and press them apart.
5. Stitch shoulder edges of back neckline facing and front bands and pres them apart.
6. Apply additional fusing stripe along front neckline edge. Pin the front band with facing to front side right sides together, then stitch around the front band, front/back necklines. Make bagging at front part side easing fabric front neckline. Topstitch front edgings’ allowance on front bands at closure segment. The stitch goes at 0.2 cm from the seams (stop it 3 cm before lower corner). Turn front edgings into right side.
7. Stitch sleeve elbow seam and press it apart. Topstitch decorative braid along sleeve hems laying it parallel to lower allowance; please do not overlap it. Stitch sleeve front seam and press it apart.
8. Stitch the cuff as a ring. Press seam allowances apart and neaten them. Neaten the cuff hem, press hem allowance into wrong side and fix it with sheer fusing. Press pleats as marked. Stitch the cuff to sleeve hem right sides together. Press the allowance toward the sleeve.
9. Stitch sleeves into armholes according to notches. Stitch sleeve pads.
10. Stitch lining seams and stitch lining sleeves in, leaving a hole into middle back seam to turn the detail right side out.
11. Stitch the lining to inner edges of front bands and back neckline facing. Stitch lower corner around. Slash rounded allowances, cut corners. Mark, then press garment hem into wrong side. Stitch garment hem around with the lining.
12. Stitch sleeve lining’s hem allowances along the seam joining the cuff. Turn the jacket right side out. Stitch hole’s edges.
13. Make buttonholes into right front edge, sew buttons to the left one.