YOU NEED: natural/mixed fabric; fusing; elastic braid of 0.5 cm width; 3 buttons.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCES: 1 cm for all seams, 3 cm for hems.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Center upper back part – 2 pieces
2. Center lower back part – 2 pieces
3. Side upper back part – 2 pieces
4. Side lower back part – 2 pieces
5. Back inset – 2 pieces
6. Center upper front part – 2 pieces
7. Center lower front part – 2 pieces
8. Side upper front part – 2 pieces
9. Side lower front part – 2 pieces
10. Front inset – 2 pieces
11. Outer collar – 1 piece
12. Inner collar – 1 piece
13. Sleeve – 2 pieces
14. Front part – 2 pieces
15. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
Fusing: front bands, back neckline facing, outer collar
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front bands, back neckline facing and outer collar.
2. Lay outer collar on the inner one and overstitch them along ends/fall; begin and stop stinting at the line of collar joining. Slash corner allowances, turn the collar right side out. Press the collar
3. Stitch side upper back part to center upper back part. Press the seam toward the center and neaten it.
Stitch back inset to upper part, press the seam toward the inset and neaten it. Make decorative stitch at 0.1 cm from the joining seam.
Stitch side lower back part to center lower back part. Press the seam toward the center and neaten it.
Stitch lower back part to the inset, press the seam toward the inset, then neaten it. Make decorative stitch at 0.1 cm from the joining seam.
4. Stitch middle back edge. Press the seam leftward and eaten it.
5. Stitch side upper front part to center upper front part. Press the seam toward the center, then neaten it.
Make a seam with loose stitches along center part’s hem. Pull the hem to make a gathering.
Stitch front inset to upper part arranging pleats between marks, press the seam toward the inset, then neaten it. Make decorative stitch at 0.1 cm from the joining seam.
Stitch side lower front part to center lower front part. Pres the seam toward center part and neaten it.
Stitch lower front part to the inset, pres the seam toward the inset and neaten it. Make decorative stitch at 0.1 cm from the joining seam.
6. Cut a fabric stripe, angle-wise 45, of 3 cm width (for loops). Fold the stripe along the center, wrong side out, and make a stitch at 0.3 cm from the folding. Cut the allowance to 0.5 cm. Turn the stripe right side out and make an even tow. Cut loops of this tow according to button diameter. Tack loops to right front edge as marked.
7. Pin front band to the right side right sides together and overstitch them along front edging. Make overstitching at front part, up to the mark of collar joining. Cut corner seams. Turn front edgings into right side.
8. Stitch shoulder/side edges. Press allowances backward; neaten them.
9. Stitch shoulder edges of back neckline facing/front bands, press then apart, then neaten. Neaten open edge. Stitch inner collar into jacket neckline, stitch outer collar into the edge of back neckline facing/front bands. Slash corners of front parts/front bands. Press joining allowances apart and fix them close to seams.
Stitch front bands’ hems to front part as marked.
10. Stitch sleeve seam, press it apart and neaten it. Make a seam with loose stitches along sleeve cap. Gather the sleeve cap a little. Stitch the sleeve into the armhole arranging pleats between marks.
11. Neaten sleeve hems. Press hem allowances into wrong side and tack them. Cut an elastic piece equal to arm girth, stitch it as a ring, lay on wring side of sleeve hem allowance and stitch it to fabric with zig zags.
12. Neaten jacket hem, press it into wrong side, them topstitch.
13. Sew buttons to left front edge.