YOU NEED: natural/mixed fabric; fusing; lining; 5 buttons.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCES: 1 cm for all seams, 2 cm for hems, 3 cm for pocket upper edge.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Center back pat – 1 piece
2. Side back part – 2 pieces
3. Back yoke – 1 piece
4. Center back inset – 1 piece
5. Side back part – 2 pieces
6. Lower back part – 1 piece
7. Side front part – 2 pieces
8. Center front part – 2 pieces
9. Center front inset – 2 pieces
10. Side front inset – 2 pieces
11. Lower front part – 2 pieces
12. Stand-up collar – 2 pieces
13. Front band – 2 pieces
14. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
15. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
16. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
17. Belt – 1 piece
18. Pocket – 2 pieces
Lining:
1. Back inset – 1 piece
2. Front inset – 2 pieces
Fusing: front band, stand-up collar, back neckline facing, center back inset, side back inset, center front inset, side front inset.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front band, stand-up collar, back neckline facing, center back inset, side back inset, center front inset, side front inset.
2. Lay stand-up collars right sides together and overstitch them along outer contour; begin and stop stitching at collar joining line. Slash rounded allowances, turn the collar right side out and press it.
3. Stitch back/front shaped edges. Press allowances toward the center and neaten them. Make double decorative stitch at 0.1 and 0.7 cm from joining seams.
4. Press pocket upper edge into wrong side, fold it under and topstitch with double stitches. Press pocket allowances into wrong side, lay the pocket on front part and topstitch with double stitches.
5. Stitch the yoke to back part. Press allowances toward the yoke, neaten them and make double decorative stitch at 0.1 and 0.7 cm from joining seams.
6. Stitch side edges of upper front/upper back parts, press allowances apart and neaten them. Stitch lower back/lower front edges, press allowances apart and neaten them.
7. Stitch side back inset to central inset. Stitch side front inset to central inset. Press allowances toward the center and make double decorative stitch at 0.1 and 0.7 cm from joining seams. Stitch insets’ side edges, press seam allowances apart. Neaten belt holes into the inset as marked. Stitch side edges of lining front/back insets. Press seam allowances apart. Neaten the hem.
8. Lay fabric/lining insets right sides together along upper edge, insert jacket’s upper part between them, stitch all details together. Fold insets downwards. Stitch jacket’s lower part to fabric inset making pleats as marked. Press seam allowances toward the inset. Topstitch neatened lining hem along the seam joining fabric inset to jacket’s lower part. Make double decorative stitch at 0.1 and 0.7 cm from joining seams of the inset.
9. Stitch shoulder edges, press seams apart and neaten them.
10. Lay front bands on front parts right sides together and overstitch along front edgings. Make overstitching at front part. Turn front edgings into right side, press seams.
11. Stitch shoulder edges of front bands/back neckline facing. Press seam allowances apart and neaten them. Neaten front bands’/back facing’s outer edge. Stitch outer stand-up collar into jacket neckline, stitch inner one into facing’s/front bands’ neckline. Slash rounded allowances, press them apart and fix together. Stitch front bands’ hems to front part as marked. Cut seams in front edgings’ lower corners. Turn front edgings into right side, press seams. Make double decorative stitch at 0.1 and 0.7 cm along front edgings and stand-up’s edge. Fix front bands at shoulder seams with 1 cm fixing.
12. Stitch elbow seam, press it apart, then neaten. Stitch sleeve front seam, press it apart, then neaten. Make a seam with loose stitches along sleeve cap’s upper part. Pull the fabric slightly between marks.
13. Stitch sleeves into armholes. Press allowances and neaten them.
14. Neaten garment/sleeve hems. Press the hem into wrong side and make double decorative stitch at 0.7 and 1.4 cm distance.
15. Make buttonholes into right front edging. Sew buttons to left one.
16. Fold the belt along the center wrong side out and overstitch along one long/one short edges. Turn the detail right side out, fold row segment allowances under and make double decorative stitch at 0.1 cm and 0.5 cm distance along belt perimeter.