5741 SPORT-STYLE JACKET

YOU NEED: denim; fusing; separating zip; 6 buttons.

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.

SEAM ALLOWANCES: 1 cm for all seams, 3 cm for flap pocket’s upper edge.

ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Center back part – 1 piece

2. Side back part – 2 pieces

3. Back waistband – 1 piece

4. Side front part – 2 pieces

5. Center front part – 2 pieces

6. Front right waistband – 1 piece

7. Front left waistband – 1 piece

8. Stand-up collar – 2 pieces

9. Front band – 2 pieces

10. Pocket – 2 pieces

11. Flap – 4 pieces

12. Sleeve – 2 pieces

13. Sleeve inset – 2 pieces

14. Cuff – 2 pieces

Fusing: front band, stand-up collar, cuff, back waistband, front right waistband, front left waistband, back neckline facing.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front band, stand-up collar, cuff, back waistband, front right waistband, front left waistband, back neckline facing.

2. Lay stand-up collars right sides together and overstitch closure allowance, outer contour and shaped end. Slash rounded allowances, turn the collar right side out and press it.

3. Stitch front/back shaped edges. Press allowances toward the center and neaten them. Make decorative stitch at 0.1 cm from joining seam.

4. Lay front parts right sides together, adjust edges, measure front edgings’ length. Stitch the zipper to front edges. Fold front edgings’ allowance at closure segment, then press.

5. Press pocket’s upper edge into wrong side, fold it under, then topstitch. Press pocket side/lower allowances into wrong side. Lay pockets on front part as marked. Topstitch pockets with double stitches at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from edges.

6. Lay flaps right sides together and overstitch along 3 outer contours. Slash rounded allowances, turn the flap right side out. Press seams. Make decorative double stitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from flap edges. Neaten flap free edge. Neaten a buttonhole. Stitch the flap to front part, fold it downward and topstitch with double stitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm distance. Sew a button on the pocket according to the buttonhole.

7. Neaten front band’s outer edge. Lay the front band on front part right sides together and overstitch along front edging. Make stitching on front part. Turn front edgings into right side, press seams.

8. Stitch shoulder/side edges. Press side/shoulder seams backward, then neaten.

9. Stitch outer stand-up collar into the neckline, fold inner stand-up’s lower edge under and topstitch along the joining seam. Make decorative stitch along stand-up collar. Fix front bands at shoulder seams with 1 cm fixing.

10. Stitch front waistbands to back one. Press seams apart. Press the waistband along the center right side out. Stitch outer waistband to jacket hem, press joining seam toward the waistband.

11. Overstitch waistband corners. Slash extra fabric in corners, turn right side out. Fold inner waistband’s open edge under and topstitch along joining seam. Make decorative stitch along waistband perimeter.

12. Stitch sleeve inset to the sleeve leaving slit segment unstitched. Slash seam allowances close to mark, press them toward the inset pressing slit segment. Make decorative double stitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from the seam.

13. Stitch sleeve seam and neaten it.

14. Fold a cuff along the center wrong side out, overstitch shaped end and closure allowance. Slash corner allowances, turn the detail into right side and press.

15. Stitch outer cuff to sleeve hem. Fold inner cuff’s upper edge under and topstitch it along joining seam. Make decorative stitch along cuff contour.

16. Stitch sleeves into armholes. Press allowances toward the armhole, neaten them and topstitch with double stitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from the joining seam.

17. Make buttonholes into the collar/waistband/cuffs. Sew button correspondingly.