YOU NEED: natural/mixed fabric; fusing; lining; raglan shoulder pads; 2 buttons.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCES: 1 cm for all seams, 3.5 for hems.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Back part – 2 pieces
2. Front part – 2 pieces
3. Collar – 2 pieces
4. Stand-up collar – 2 pieces
5. Lapel – 4 pieces
6. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
7. Front band – 2 pieces
8. Front sleeve – 2 pieces
9. Back sleeve – 2 pieces
10. Belt – 1 piece
Lining:
1. Back part – 2 pieces
2. Front part – 2 pieces
3. Front sleeve – 2 pieces
4. Back sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusing:
1. Front part – 2 pieces
2. Front band – 2 pieces
3. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
4. Collar – 1 piece
5. Stand-up collar – 1 piece
6. Lapel – 2 pieces
NB: please do not take into account neckline/front band facings' width when cutting lining front/back parts correspondingly.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of back neckline facing, front band, front part, outer collar, outer stand-up collar and outer lapel.
2. Mark back darts. Stitch darts and press them toward the center. Mark front darts. Stitch darts and press them toward the center. Slash dart depths.
3. Stitch back middle edge, press the seam apart. Stitch back sleeves to back part. Stitch front sleeves to front parts. Press seams apart.
4. Stitch sleeve upper edges. Press seams apart. Stitch sleeve lower edges/side edges with one seam. Press seams apart.
5. Lay collars right sides together. Overstitch collar ends/fall. Cut the seam. Turn the collar right side out and press it. Lay stand-ups right sides together, insert ready collar, adjust notches and stitch all together overstitching stand-up collar’s ends. Turn the stand-up right side out and press it.
6. Lay lapels right sides together and overstitch along the contour leaving neckline joining edge. Cut the seam. Turn the lapel right side out and press it.
7. Stitch the collar and the lapels to the jacket. Press seams.
8. Stitch shoulder edges of back neckline facing/front bands. Press seams apart.
9. Lay the front band on the front part right sides together and overstitch the front band and jacket’s neckline. Topstitch overstitching allowance on the front band. The stitch goes at 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn front edgings into right side.
10. Stitch lining details leaving a hole into sleeve right seam.
11. Press garment/sleeve hems under. Sew shoulder pads. Stitch the lining to inner edges of front bands/back neckline facing. Overstitch front edging’s lower corner. Cut front edging’s lower corner seams. Stitch the lining to jacket/sleeve hems. Turn the jacket right side out through the hole in the sleeve. Stitch the hole.
12. Make buttonholes into right front edge, sew buttons on the left one.
13. Fold the belt along the center and overstitch it along one long/one short edges. Turn the belt right side out, fold row segment’s allowances under and make decorative stitch at 0.1 cm along belt’s perimeter. Sew the belt to left side seam.