5753 BLOUSE WITH SHAPED YOKE

YOU NEED: soft natural/mixed fabric; fusing; decorative braid of 1.5-2 cm; 11 buttons.

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.

SEAM ALLOWANCES: 1 cm for all seams. 2 cm for the hem.

ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Back part – 1 piece

2. Front part – 2 pieces

3. Yoke – 2 pieces

4. Sleeve – 2 pieces

5. Stand-up collar – 2 pieces

6. Placket – 2 pieces

7. Front band – 2 pieces

8. Inner placket – 1 piece

9. Cuff – 2 pieces

Fusing: front band, inner placket, stand-up collar, cuffs.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front band, inner placket, outer stand-up collar, cuffs.

2. Stitch waist/upper front darts and back darts. Press waist darts toward the center, press upper front darts upward.

3. Stitch the yoke to front part inserting decorative braid into the seam. Press seam allowances toward the yoke and neaten them.

4. Stitch the placket to front part. Press seam allowances toward the placket and neaten them.

5. Make button loops: cut 2-3 cm width fabric stripe (not straight). Fold it along the center wrong side out. Stitch it along the folding wit 0.3-0.4 width seam. To seam end, extend seam width to 0.5-0.7 cm. Cut seam allowance to 0.3-0.6 cm. Turn this cord right side out with a needle with thick thread. The cord must be thick along its length. Cut the cord into 9 pieces equal to button’s double diameter+2 cm. Fold them in loops, lay on right front part’s wrong edge according to marks, fix with machine stitch.

6. Stitch inner placket along the center wrong side out and overstitch upper edge. Turn the placket into right side, press it, lay it on left front part’s wrong side with its fold out of the edge, then tack. Lay front band’s right side on front part’s wrong side and overstitch front edge. Turn front band right side out, press it. Press front edging’s outer long edge under and topstitch on front part at 0.1 cm from the fold.

7. Lay stand-up collars right sides together and overstitch along outer side; begin and finish stitching at the line of stand-up joining. Slash rounded allowances, turn the stand-up right side out, then press.

8. Stitch shoulder/side edges. Press seams backward, then neaten.

9. Stitch outer stand-up collar into the neckline, fold inner stand-up’s open edge under and stitch it along joining seam.

10. Fold cuffs wrong side out and overstitch side edges/closure allowances, then cut corner allowances and turn them right side out. Press the cuffs.

11. Neaten sleeve edges. Stitch sleeve seams excluding a segment between the mark and the hem.

12. Stitch cuff’s outer side to sleeve hem. Fold inner cuff’s allowances under and topstitch it along joining seam.

13. Stitch sleeves easing them along sleeve caps. Neaten seams.

14. Press garment’s hem into wrong side, fold it under and topstitch.

15. Make buttonholes into the cuffs and sew buttons. Sew buttons to left front edging.

OUR ADVICE: you can make decorative braid yourself. Cut a fabric stripe of 2-2.5 cm width, overstitch one edge and make pleats along the stripe.