YOU NEED: satin, sateen for main details; taffeta for decorative details; zipper of 25 cm length; fusing; sheer fusing.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCES: 1 cm for all seams, 2 cm for front/back trimming’s lower edge.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Upper back part – 2 pieces
2. Upper front part – 2 pieces
3. Side front part – 2 pieces
4. Center front part – 1 piece
5. Lower back part – 1 piece
6. Lower front part – 1 piece
7. Front neckline facing – 1 piece
8. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
9. Front armhole facing – 2 pieces
10. Back armhole facing – 2 pieces
Trimming:
1. Front neckline facing – 1 piece
2. Back trimming – 1 piece
3. Front trimming – 1 piece
Fusing: front/back neckline facings, front/back armhole facings.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front/back neckline facings, front/back armhole facings.
2. Stitch shoulder/waist darts into back part. Press depths toward back center. Stitch back middle edge, press seam allowances leftward and neaten them.
3. Stitch side front part to center front part. Press seam allowances toward front center and neaten them. Stitch upper front part to side/center front part. Press allowances upward and neaten them. Stitch trimming neckline facing to front part. Press seam allowances toward the facing.
4. Make pleats into lower back/front parts. Stitch lower back part to back part. Press joining seam upward and neaten it. Stitch lower front part to front part. Press joining seam upward and neaten it.
5. Stitch front trimming to front part, stitch back trimming to back part. Press joining seams upward and neaten them.
6. Stitch shoulder edges. Press seam allowances apart and neaten them. Stitch right side seam, press allowances backward and neaten it. Stitch left side seam between the mark and the hem. Press seam allowances apart pressing closure slit, then neaten. Stitch the zipper.
7. Stitch front/back facings’ shoulder edges, press seams apart. Neaten facing’s outer edge. Lay the facing on the ferment and overstitch neckline edge. Fold the facing into wrong side and press it. Topstitch front facing along the seam joining outer trim facing.
8. Stitch right armhole facings’ right/shoulder edges. Stitch left armhole facings’ right/shoulder edges. Neaten outer edges. Lay facings on the garment right sides together and overstitch armholes. Topstitch allowances on the facings at 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the facings into wrong side and press them. Stitch left facing’s side edges to zipper allowance.
9. Press garment’s hem into wrong side, fold it under and topstitch.