YOU NEED: soft silk/viscose; fusing.
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SEAM ALLOWANCES: 1 cm for all seams, 1.5 cm for garment/sleeve hems.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Front part – 2 pieces
2. Back part – 2 pieces
3. Stand-up collar – 2 pieces
4. Waistband – 2 pieces
5. Sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusing:
1. Stand-up collar – 1 piece
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of outer collar.
2. Stitch upper front darts. Press darts upward. Stitch wrap darts as marked, then press it downward.
3. Stitch back darts. Press darts toward middle seam. Stitch back middle seam. Neaten the seam and press it.
4. Neaten side edges. Stitch side edges and press them apart leaving a hole in the right seam. Make decorative stitch at 0.1 cm along the hole in the right seam, Stitch shoulder seams, neaten them, then press backward.
5. Lay stand-ups right sides together and overstitch them. Cut seam allowances and turn the collar right side out. Slash seam allowances on inner stand-up collar, close to shoulder seam marks. Press the collar.
6. Cut front part between shoulder seam and the mark. Neaten a segment of shoulder seam/diagonal edge of one-piece front band. Stitch outer/inner collars into neckline on front part, stitch only outer collar into the neckline on back part. At front part, seam allowance is 0.2-0.3 cm. Fold front band into right side and stitch it to the collar/shoulder seam. Fold the front band into wrong side. Fold outer collar’s free allowance under and topstitch it along the seam joining the outer collar.
7. Fold the waistband along the center wrong side out and overstitch 2 long edges and one short edge. Turn the detail right side out, then press.
8. Fold the front band into right side, insert the waistband between the front band and front part and stitch all with one seam. Neaten the seam, fold the front band into wrong side. Fold open edge on the segment between the waistband and the hem, then topstitch.
9. Stitch sleeve seams and neaten them. Press seam allowances. Make a seam with loose stitches between notches, gather the fabric a little. Stitch sleeves into armholes. Neaten seams and press them toward front part.
10. Neaten the hem, press it into wrong side, then topstitch.