6002 TROUSERS

YOU NEED: wool/semi-wool; cotton of 60 cm length and 140 cm width (of the same colour); lining of 75 cm length and 140 cm width; fusing of 25 cm length and 140 width; piping of 120 cm length and 150 cm width (of the same colour); sipper of 20 cm length; 4 buttons of 15 mm diameter.

NB! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

ALL DETAILS ARE DRAWN WITH SEAM ALLOWANCES.

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Back part – 2 pieces

2. Front part – 2 pieces

3. Closure right valance – 2 pieces

4. Waistband – 2 pieces

5. Front sacking’s valance – 2 pieces

6. Back sacking’s valance (18x5 cm rectangle) – 2 pieces

7. Front facing (16.5x5 cm rectangle) – 2 pieces

8. Back facing (13.5x5 cm rectangle) – 2 pieces

9. Closure left valance – 1 piece

10. Wide belt loop (6.5x17 cm rectangle) – 1 piece

11. Narrow belt loops (4.5x55 cm rectangle) – 1 piece

Lining:

12. Front part – 2 pieces

Cotton:

13. Front sacking – 2 folded pieces

14. Back sacking – 2 folded pieces

Fusing: waistband, facings, closure left valance.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of waistband, back/front facings and closure left valance.

2. Stitch back darts and press them.

3. Lay corresponding valance’s wrong side on front sacking’s right side according to marks, fold inner edges under and stitch along edges. Tack the valance to sacking along open edges.

4. Press front facing along the center right side out.

5. Pin front facing folded towards middle edge on front part’s right side. Lay sacking’s wrong side (without the valance) over and stitch the facing and the sacking at 1 cm along marking’s both sides; cut the fabric and the sacking between stitches chevronwise to stitches’ ends; turn the sacking into wrong side and stitch fabric/facing’s ends triangles to wrong side to sacking.

6. Press front sacking along the center wrong side out, stitch along lower edges and neaten allowances. Make fixing stitch on right side (if you are well-experienced stitch wrong side) of front part’s upper edge and along pocket entrance stitching the sacking.

7. Tack front sacking to waist edge.

8. Process back pocket in the same way as front. Make a buttonhole on the pocket.

9. Make a pleat into front part, stitch, press as directed and tack to waist edge. Tack a pleat into lining details.

10. Stitch lining hems with zig zag.

11. Lay the lining on front part right sides together and tack them together along open edges.

12. Stitch side seams/inseams, neaten allowances.

13. Stitch front parts’ middle seam up to the closure and neaten allowances.

14. Fold closure right valance wrong side out, stitch along outer edges, turn the detail right side out and press.

15. Lay left valance on closure’s correspondent edge right sides together, then stitch along the edge. Press allowances towards valance and make fixing stitch; press the valance into garment’s wrong side. Pin the zipper (folded sideward) on closure’s right edge; fold the valance right side out and lay it above coinciding edges; stitch all layers together. Make fixing stitch along zipper’s edge. Stitch zipper’s another side to left valance. Neaten allowances and stitch left valance on the garment. Make fixing zig zag stitch along valances’ lower edges (wrong side).

17. Fold wide belt loop along the center wrong side out, stitch long edges together, turn the details right side out and press it placing the seam in the middle. Cut the detail in two pieces.

18. Do the same for narrow belt loop and cut it into six pieces.

19. Pin downfolded belt loops on waist edge’s right side.

20. Cut extra fabric of waistband’s left front end, leave 1 cm allowance.

21. Lay the piping on the garment right sides together adjusting edges, then stitch at the distance of ¼ piping’s width. Round garment’s edge with the piping. Fold the rest of the piping (1/4 of piping’s width) and topstitch along the bending coinciding the seam and the seam made before.

22. Fold each waistband along the center wrong side out and stitch front edge. Turn details right side out and press them.

23. Stitch each waistbands’ open edges to corresponding waist edge right sides together coinciding control marks and side seams. Then press allowances towards the waistband.

24. Stitch middle back seam and waistband beginning from inseams. Press allowances apart and neaten them.

25. Press the waistband along the center and sew waistband’s trimmed edge to waist edge with blind stitch.

26. Press belt loops upwards, fold edges under and stitch along the edge.

27. Press hems into wrong side, process with zig zag and sew with blind stitches.

28. Make the buttonholes and sew buttons.