6014 COAT
YOU NEED: wool/semiwool fabrics suitable for coats; lining; the
fusing of 120 cm length and 140 cm width; 3 buttons of 25 mm diameter; 2
buttons of 15 mm diameter.
NB!
Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen
width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget
about double and symmetric details).
ALL DETAILS ARE DRAWN WITH SEAM ALLOWANCES.
CUTTING:
1. Sleeve stripe – 2 pieces
2. Back part – 2 pieces
3. Back sleeve – 2 pieces
4. Front sleeve – 2 pieces
5. Front band – 2 pieces
6. Flap – 2 pieces
7. Pocket – 2 pieces
8. Front part – 2 pieces
9. Inner collar – 1 piece
10. Stand-up collar – 2 pieces
11.Outer collar – 1 piece
Lining:
1. Back part+2 cm along middle line (for free-fit
pleat);
2. Front part excluding front bands;
3. Pocket is 3 cm shorter along upper edge;
4. Both sleeves, flap, sleeve strap – without changes;
Lining hems are 2 cm shorter than fabric one.
Fusing: front part, inner collar, stand-up collar, pocket,
flap, hem allowance.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front part, inner
collar, stand-up collar, pocket, flap, hem allowance.
2. Stitch the lining to pocket upper edge, turn right
side out, adjust edges and make 1.5 cm stitch along upper edge.
3. Press pocket edges into wrong side and sew them on
front parts with blind stitches. Make 1.5 cm stitch.
4. Overstitch the flap with lining, turn right side
out and make 1.5 cm stitch.
5. Stitch upfolded flap to front part, fold it down
and make 1.5 cm stitch.
6. Stitch back part along middle line up to the vent.
Press allowances leftward and make 1.5 cm stitch on right side.
7. Fold left back part vent’s allowance into right
side and stitch along hem line. Then turn right side out and make 1.5-cm
stitch.
8. Fold right back part’s hem into right side and
stitch along vent allowance’s edge, then turn right side out.
9. Make the vent and fix vent’s top with diagonal
stitch.
10. Stitch side seams.
11. Stitch sleeves along lower seam.
12. Stitch sleeves into armholes.
13. Overstitch sleeve stripes with the lining, turn
them right side out and make 1.5 cm stitch.
14. Lay sleeve stripes on sleeve’s right side and tack
along edges.
15. Stitch shoulder seam stitching sleeve stripes.
16. Stitch one stand-up to outer collar, stitch
another stand-up to inner collar. Press allowances apart and make stitches
along both side of the seam.
17. Stitch inner collar into garment neckline. Stitch
outer collar to front bands.
18. Lay front bands joint with outer collar on the
garment right sides together, adjust edges and overstitch front edgings and the
collar. Turn right side out and stitch collars along lower edge.
19. Make 1.5 cm stitch along collar edge/front
edgings.
20. Fold hem allowances into wrong side.
21.
Make free-fit pleat and fix it under neckline and few cms above garment’s hem.
Stitch lining details in the same way as fabric’s, leave a segment of 20 cm
length into an elbow seam. Lay the lining into fabric garment right sides
together, coinciding middle back line and shoulder seams. Overstitch the
garment with lining along front bands and neckline. Make a lapping pleat into
hem and stitch the lining to hem edge, side vent facing and along back vent
facing’s edge (before you do it, slash horizontally lining allowances at back
vent’s hem). Turn the garment right side out through sleeve segment, then
stitch segment’s edges together.
22. Make 1.5 cm stitch along the hem.
23. Make buttonholes into left front part and sew
buttons on front edging and sleeve stripes.