6016 COAT

YOU NEED: wool/semiwool fabrics suitable for coats; lining; fusing of 210 cm length and 140 cm width; warmer of 80 cm length and 8 cm width; 9 buttons of 25 mm diameter; shoulder pads.

NB! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

ALL DETAILS ARE DRAWN WITH SEAM ALLOWANCES.

CUTTING:

1. Back part – 2 pieces

2. Front part – 2 pieces

3. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces

4. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces

5. Sleeve lapel – 2 pieces

6. Outer collar – 1 piece

7. Outer stand-up collar – 1 piece

8. Inner collar – 2 pieces

9. Flap – 2 pieces

10. Half belt – 2 pieces

11. Front band – 2 pieces

12. Pocket – 2 pieces

Lining:

1. Back part+2 cm along middle line (for free-fit pleat);

2. Pocket is 4 cm shorter along upper edge

3. Both sleeves, sleeve lapels, half belt and flap – without changes;

Lining hems are 2 cm shorter than fabric one.

Fusing: front bands, outer/inner collars, stand-up collar, flap, half belt, pocket allowance, hem allowance and marked segment of front part.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front bands, outer/inner collars, stand-up collar, flap, half belt, pocket allowance, hem allowance and marked segment of front part.

2. Stitch the lining to pocket upper edge, turn right side out, adjust edges and make 1.5 cm stitch along upper edge.

3. Press pocket edges into wrong side and sew them on front parts with blind stitches. Make 1.5 cm stitch.

4. Overstitch the flap with lining, turn right side out and make 1.5 cm stitch.

5. Stitch upfolded flap to front part, fold it down and make 1.5 cm stitch.

6. On back part’s wrong side: stitch pleats and press them towards back middle.

7. Stitch back part along middle line up to the vent. Press allowances leftward and make 1.5 cm stitch on right side.

8. Fold left back part vent’s allowance into right side and stitch along hem line. Then turn right side out and make 1.5-cm stitch.

9. Fold right back part’s hem into right side and stitch along vent allowance’s edge, then turn right side out.

10. Make the vent and fix vent’s top with diagonal stitch.

11. Overstitch half belts with the lining, turn details right side out and make 1.5 cm stitch.

12. Lay half belts on back part's right side according to marks and tack along edges.

13. Stitch side/shoulder seams.

14. Stitch the stand-up to outer collar, press allowances apart and make stitches along both side of the seam.

15. Stitch inner collar along middle line and press allowances apart.

16. Stitch inner collar into fabric neckline, stitch outer collar to front bands.

17. Lay front bands joint with outer collar on the garment right sides together, adjust edges and overstitch front edgings and the collar. Turn right side out and stitch collars along lower edge.

18. Make 1.5 cm stitch along collar edge/front edgings.

19. Press marked segment of sleeve and stitch upper sleeve lo lower one.

20. Stitch each sleeve lapel into ring up to the slit.

21. Overstitch the lapel with the lining, turn the detail right side out and make 1.5 cm stitch.

22. Stitch lining lapel to sleeve hem’s right side. Stitch lapel’s lower edge to the sleeve along the previous seam.

23. Fold the lapel ready and fix it on the sleeve under slit and on sleeve seam.

24. Ease sleeve cap slightly (narrow close stitches) between marks and pull the cord till sleeve cap coincides to armhole. Moist the fabric and iron pleats. Stitch sleeve seam and press allowances apart. Pin sleeves to the garment coinciding marks. Stitch sleeves to garment at sleeve side.

25. Cut the warmer into equal parts and sew it to sleeve caps’ wrong sides.

26. Press the hem into wrong side and sew with blind stitches.

27. Sew shoulder pads.

28. Make free-fit pleat and fix it under neckline and few cms above garment’s hem. Stitch lining details in the same way as fabric’s, leave a segment of 20 cm length into an elbow seam. Lay the lining into fabric garment right sides together, coinciding middle back line and shoulder seams. Overstitch the garment with lining along front bands and neckline. Make a lapping pleat into hem and stitch the lining to hem edge, side vent facing and along back vent facing’s edge (before you do it, slash horizontally lining allowances at back vent’s hem). Turn the garment right side out through sleeve segment, then stitch segment’s edges together.

29. Make buttonholes into half belt, lapels, left front part according to marks.

30. Sew buttons.