6022 RAINCOAT
YOU NEED: fabric suitable for raincoats; lining; fusing of 140
cm length and 140 cm width; satin piping of 330 cm length and 1.5 cm width; 6
buttons of 30 mm diameter; 2 buttons of 15 mm diameter; 1 currach clasp.
NB!
Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen
width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget
about double and symmetric details).
ALL DETAILS ARE DRAWN WITH SEAM ALLOWANCES.
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Back part – 2 pieces
2. Front part – 2 pieces
3. Back sleeve – 2 pieces
4. Front sleeve – 2 pieces
5. Sleeve lapel – 2 pieces
6. Stand-up collar – 2 folded pieces
7. Off-set welt – 2 pieces
8. Sleeve belt – 4 pieces
9. Right waistband – 2 pieces
10. Waistband – 2 pieces
11. Collar – 2 folded pieces
12. Front band – 2 pieces
13. Sacking – 2 pieces
14. Front detail – 2 pieces
15. Side belt loop (20x2 cm rectangle) – 1 piece
16. Belt loop (12x2 cm rectangle) – 1 piece
Lining:
17. Back part – 1 folded piece
18. Front part – 2 pieces
19. Back sleeve – 2 pieces
20. Front sleeve – 2 pieces
21. Sacking – 2 pieces
Please use to cut off lining:
Back part
Front part without front bands
Sleeve’s both pieces (3 cm shortened)
Sacking, sleeve lapel – without changes
Lining hem is 3 cm shorter than coat’s one.
Fusing: front part’s marked segment, both waistbands, back
vent’s allowance, off-set welt’s half width, front detail.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front part’s
marked segment, both waistbands, back vent’s allowance, off-set welt’s half
width, front detail.
2. Lay front details (with and without fusing) right
sides together, stitch them together along the perimeter excluding short straight
edge. Turn the detail right side out, press it and topstitch along edges.
3. Lay front detail folded toward front edging on left
front part’s right side, stitch it and cut allowances to 5 mm. Press front
detail towards armhole and make decorative topstitch at 7 mm.
4. Bend off-set welt along the center wrong side out,
overstitch short edges, turn it right side out and press. Make decorative
stitch at 1 cm from welt’s bending chevronwise to welt’s ends. Pin downfolded
off-set welt on garment’s right side according to marks. Lay lining sacking on
off-set welt; pin upfolded fabric sacking on and topstitch along both sides of
marking at 5 mm distance. Cut the fabric between stitches chevronwise to
stitches’ ends; turn sackings into wrong side. Topstitch welt’s free edge on
the sacking with zig zags. Fold both sackings, adjust them and stitch together
along the contour. On right side: stitch welt’s ends on the garment. Make
decorative stitch along pocket’s lower edge, stitch welt’s short edges with additional
1-cm stitch.
5. Stitch middle back seam, press allowances leftward
and make 1-cm decorative stitch.
6. Turn vent left allowance into right side and stitch
along back hem line. Turn right side out and press. Make 1-cm decorative stitch
along vent’s left bending.
7. Fold right back allowance into right side, stitch
along vent’s allowance, turn right side out and press.
8. Overlap the vent leftwards and fix it with diagonal
stitch at its top.
9. Stitch side seams, press allowances backwards and
make 5-mm decorative topstitch.
10. Fold side belt loop along the center wrong side
out, stitch long edges together, turn the detail right side out. Press it, then
topstitch decoratively along edges. Cut the detail into equal pieces.
11. Fold belt loops’ open edges under, lay loops on
side seams and stitch along edges.
12. Stitch sleeve’s upper seam, press allowances
frontwards and topstitch decoratively at 1 cm.
13. Stitch sleeve’s lower seam.
14. Stitch sleeves into armholes coinciding control
marks, press allowances toward sleeves and make 1-cm decorative stitch.
15. Stitch sleeve lapel into ring op to the slit.
16. Overstitch sleeve lapel with the lining, turn
right side out and make 1-cm topstitch.
17. Stitch sleeve lining lapel to sleeve hem’s right
side; stitch lapel’s lower edge to the sleeve along the seam made before.
18. Make a lapel and fix it on the sleeve and sleeve
seam.
19. Press sleeve hem into wrong side and sew with
blind stitches.
20. Trim coat’s hem with the piping: Lay the piping on
the cat right sides together coinciding edges, then stitch at the distance of ¼
piping. Round coat’s edge with the piping, fold the rest of piping under (1/4
of piping’s width) and stitch along the bend coinciding with the seam made
before.
21. Stitch front band to inner front part.
22. Stitch lining details in the same way as fabrics’
(without decorative topstitching).
23. Trim lining hem with piping in the same way as
coat’s.
24. Stitch fabric stand-up collar to inner collar
coinciding control marks, then press allowances open.
25. Stitch outer collar to stand-up collar coinciding
control marks.
26. Stitch inner collar into coat neckline right sides
together coinciding control marks and shoulder seams.
27. Stitch outer collar to the lining in the same way.
28. Lay the lining joint with outer collar on the
garment right sides together, and stitch the collar and front edgings. Press
collar/lapels allowances towards inner collar and front part, then make 1-cm
fixing stitch.
29. Turn the garment right side out and press it.
30. On wrong side: stitch inner collar’s lower edge to
garment’s neckline.
31. Press coat’s hem into wrong side and stitch along
the edge.
32. Fold fabric/lining vent right allowance’s open
edges under, sew them together with blind stitches. Slash vent left allowance’s
lining close to vent base and sew on garment allowance with blind stitches.
33. Topstitch front edgings decoratively between
lapels and the hem.
34. Fold lining sleeve hem under and sew it to fabric
sleeve hem.
35. Sew both waistbands along middle seam. Make the
waistband.
36. Make belt loop, stitch it into ring, set it into
the waistband and fix it close to the clasp.
37. Make buttonholes into front detail, vent upper
part, left front edging and one upper buttonhole into right front part.
38. Sew buttons.