6028 SHIRT

YOU NEED: shirting (cotton); fusing of 40 cm length and 140 cm width; 9 buttons of 13 mm diameter; 5 buttons of 9 mm diameter.

NB! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

ALL DETAILS ARE DRAWN WITH SEAM ALLOWANCES.

CUTTING:

1. Back part – 1 folded piece

2. Left front part – 1 piece

3. Yoke – 1 piece

4. Sleeve – 2 pieces

5. Collar – 2 pieces

6. Stand-up collar – 2 pieces

7. Pocket – 1 piece

8. Sleeve facing – 2 pieces

9. Cuff – 4 pieces

10. Right front part – 1 piece

Fusing: collar; stand-up collar; cuffs.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of one of collar, one of stand-up collars and one of cuffs.

2. Make a pleat into back part and tack it.

3. Embroider the pocket.

4. Press pocket’s upper edge into wrong side along dashed line, press the edge under and stitch along edge.

5. Press pocket’s other edges into wrong side and stitch the pocket on left front part.

6. Press right front edging allowance into wrong side, fold the edge under and stitch along the edge.

7. Press left front edging into wrong side, make a pleat of closure placket into right side (front edging is in a pleat) and stitch a 5 mm pleat. Press the pleat sidewise and make 5 mm stitch along the edge.

8. Lay yokes right sides together, insert back part between them and stitch together adjusting edges. Turn right side out, press and make decorative stitch.

9. Stitch inner yoke’s right side to front part’s wrong side. Press yoke’s shoulder edge inside, lay it on the previous seam and stitch long the edge.

10. Reinforce one stand-up and one collar with the fusing. Stitch both collars right sides together along outer edges. Turn the detail right side out, press and make 5 mm decorative stitch. Lay both stand-ups right side together, insert the collar between upper edges laying reinforces stand-up on reinforced collar, then stitch; continue stitching along closure ejects. Press stand-up’s open edges into wrong side, insert neckline edge between them and stitch along the edge; continue decorative stitching along stand-up’s upper edge.

11. Stitch sleeves into armholes right sides together. Press allowances toward the same side, cut half width of lower allowance, fold upper allowance under and stitch on the garment along upper edge with single/double decorative stitch.

12. Pin slit facing’s right side on wrong side of sleeve according to marks and stitch along the edge. Cut the fabric along cut ling and process open edge with hem stitch. Slash allowances at slit base and fold half width of facing into right side. Fold facing’s open edges and stitch on the sleeve along edge.

13. Make pleats into sleeve hems.

14. Stitch side/sleeve seam with a single lap seam right side together. Press allowances backward, cut lower allowance’s half width, fold upper edge under and stitch on the garment along the edge with single/double decorative stitch.

15. Fold the cuff along the center wrong side out, stitch short edges and turn the detail right side out. Stitch cuff’s reinforces side to sleeve hem right sides together. Press cuff’s open edge inside and stitch to the garment along the previous seam. Make 5 mm stitch along cuff edge; make another stitch at 1 cm from the line joining the cuff.

16. Turn in shirt hem.

17. Make buttonholes into left front edging/stand-up collar/collar and cuffs. Sew buttons.