6029 SHIRT

YOU NEED: shirting (cotton); fusing of 60 cm length and 90 cm width; 11 pearl buttons of 12 mm diameter.

NB! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

ALL DETAILS ARE DRAWN WITH SEAM ALLOWANCES.

CUTTING:

1. Back part – 1 folded piece

2. Front part – 2 pieces

3. Sleeve – 2 pieces

4. Yoke – 2 folded pieces

5. Stand-up collar – 2 pieces

6. Collar – 2 folded pieces

7. Sleeve facing – 2 pieces

8. Flap – 4 pieces

9. Pocket – 2 pieces

10. Cuff (25/26/27/28x7 cm) – 4 pieces

Fusing: collar, stand-up collar, cuffs.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of outer cuffs, inner stand-up collar and outer collar.

2. Press pocket’s upper edge into wrong side, press the edge under and stitch along edge.

3. Press pocket’s open edges into wrong side and stitch the pocket on left front part with double stitch.

4. Stitch flaps right sides together along outer edges. Turn details right side out, press them and make double decorative stitches.

5. Stitch upturned flap to front part and cut allowances t0 5 mm. Press the flap downward and make double fixing stitch.

6. Stitch one-piece front band twice into wrong side and stitch with double stitch. Make double decorative stitch along front edging.

7. Make pleats into back part, press as directed and tack along edges.

8. Lay yokes right sides together, insert upper back part between them and stitch together adjusting edges. Turn right side out, press and make double decorative stitch.

9. Do the same to stitch the yoke to front part.

10. Side seams to slit marks: stitch side seam with a single lap seam right side together. Press allowances backward, cut lower allowance’s half width, fold upper edge under and stitch on the garment along the edge with double decorative stitch.

11. Pin slit facing’s right side on wrong side of sleeve according to marks and stitch along the edge. Cut the fabric along cut ling and process open edge with hem stitch. Slash allowances at slit base and fold half width of facing into right side. Fold facing’s open edges and stitch on the sleeve along edge.

12. Stitch sleeve seam with lap seam.

13. Stitch sleeves into armholes with lap seams; coincide marks.

14. Reinforce one stand-up and one collar with the fusing. Stitch both collars right sides together along outer edges. Turn the detail right side out, press and make 5 mm decorative stitch. Lay both stand-ups right side together, insert the collar between upper edges laying reinforces stand-up on reinforced collar, then stitch; continue stitching along closure ejects. Press stand-up’s open edges into wrong side, insert neckline edge between them and stitch along the edge; continue double decorative stitching along stand-up’s/collar’s upper edge.

15. Make pleats into sleeve hems, press as directed and tack along edges.

16. Fold the cuff along the center wrong side out, stitch short edges and turn the detail right side out. Stitch cuff’s reinforces side to sleeve hem right sides together. Press cuff’s open edge inside and stitch to the garment along the previous seam making double decorative stitch along cuff’s perimeter.

17. Turn in shirt hem and hem side slits.

18. Make side slits and fixing stitch at tops.

19. Make buttonholes into left front edging/stand-up collar/collar, cuffs and flaps. Sew buttons.