6030 TRENCH COAT

YOU NEED: fabric suitable for coats; checked lining; thick lining of 95 cm length and 90 cm width; fusing of 175 cm length and 90 cm width; 9 buttons of 25 mm diameter; 4 buttons of 12 mm diameter; 7 buttons of 15 mm diameter; 2 clasps for sleeve stripes; clasp for belt; 14 eyelets.

NB! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

ALL DETAILS ARE DRAWN WITH SEAM ALLOWANCES.

CUTTING:

1. Back part – 2 pieces

2. Front part – 2 pieces

3. Back yoke – 1 folded piece

4. Back sleeve – 2 pieces

5. Front sleeve – 2 pieces

6. Outer collar – 1 piece

7. Stand-up collar – 2 pieces

8. Flap – 4 pieces

9. Back inset – 1 folded pieces

10. Inset stripe – 2 pieces

11. Belt – 1 folded piece

12. Sleeve stripe (rectangle of 20x2 cm) – 2 pieces

13.Front band – 2 pieces

14. Right lap – 2 pieces

15. Back yoke hem’s facing – 1 folded piece

16. Sacking – 2 pieces

17. Pocket facing (rectangle of 20x6 cm) – 2 pieces

18. Inner collar – 1 piece

19. Belt loop (rectangle of 36x6 cm) – 1 piece

20. Sleeve loop – 1 piece

Checked lining:

1. Back part – 1 folded piece

2. Front part – 2 pieces

Lining:

1. Back part joint with yoke excluding slit facing;

2. Front part excluding front band;

3. Both sleeves and sacking without changes;

Lining hems are 2 cm shorter than fabric one.

Fusing: front bands, flaps, outer/inner collars, stand-up collar, half width of sleeve stripe, belt, outer side of right lap and outer side of inset stripe.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front bands, flaps, outer/inner collars, stand-up collar, half width of sleeve stripe, belt, outer side of right lap and outer side of inset stripe.

2. Cut slit “frame” pockets with two facings into front parts: Press facings along the center wrong side out. Pin controversially folded facings on garment’s right side according to marks. Lay lining sacking on lower facings. Lay fabric sacking on upper facing inserting flap folded upward between upper facing and fabric sacking and topstitch along both sides of marking at 5 mm distance. Cut the fabric between stitches chevronwise to stitches’ ends; turn sackings into wrong side and make 1.2 cm facings. Topstitch facing free edges on sackings with zig zag stitches. Fold both sackings, adjust them and stitch together along the contour. On wrong side: topstitch facing’s ends on fabric triangles. Make stitches along facing at 1.2 cm from marking. Topstitch triangles on right side along facings’ ends.

3. Overstitch the flap, turn it right side out and make double stitch at 1.3 cm from edge.

4. Stitch upturned flap to marking, fold it under and make 7mm stitch.

5. Overstitch right lap along outer edges, turn right side out and make 7 mm stitch.

6. Lay the lap on right side of right part and tack along armhole and neckline.

7. Stitch Middle back seam up to the slit and press allowances apart.

8. Lay yoke hem’s facing on the yoke right sides together, stitch, turn right side out and make 7 mm stitch.

9. Lay yoke facing on back part right sides together adjusting edges, stitch together and tack along armholes.

10. Stitch side seams; press allowances backward and make stitch along edge.

11. Stitch sleeve seam and stitch sleeves into armholes. Press allowances toward the sleeve and make 1.3 cm stitch between lower edge to the mark as well as along allowance edge – between marking and upper edge.

12. Stitch shoulder seams and raglan seams: press allowances backward and make double stitch.

13. Lay front band on front part right sides together, overstitch along closure and lapel (up to the collar), turn right side out and press.

14. Press hem allowance into wrong side, fold the edge under and stitch.

15. Overstitch (belt) loops, turn them right side out, make a stitch along edge and cut as follows: cut sleeve loop into 6 pieces, cut belt loop into 3 pieces

16. Make s ring of each loop, lay on marking and stitch from inside along edges frontward and backward.

17. Overstitch inset stripe, turn it right side out and make double stitch along the edge.

18. Pin sidewise inset stripe on right side of back slit’s left facing.

19. Stitch lining details in the same way as fabric ones.

20. Stitch the lining to front bands, set into the garment with lining’s wrong side onside, and tack along slit edges and sleeve hems.

21. Apply the fusing to one of stand-up collar and one collar. Lay both collars right sides together and stitch along outer contour; turn the collar right side out, press it and make double decorative stitch at 1.3 cm from the edge. Lay both stand-ups right sides together, insert the collar so that reinforced stand-up laid on reinforced collar, then stitch them together; continue stitching along closure ejects. Press stand-up’s open edges into wrong side.

22. Lay the lining on the trench coat with coat’s right side into, insert collar edges between lining/fabric necklines coinciding marks, then stitch. Turn all right side out.

23. Make double stitch at 1.3 cm from front edgings and lapel edges. Make a stitch along neckline.

24. Process lower edge of back inset by analogy with the garment.

25. Stitch the inset to back slit facings and press allowances into wrong side.

26. Make a slit coinciding its edges and inset’s middle line. Make a stitch joining underfolded edges of the inset/slit facings to back part.

27. Stitch a triangle at slit top.

28. Sew sleeve hems in the same way and back part.

29. Overstitch sleeve stripes, turn them right side out and make double stitch.

30. Set clasp and eyelets into sleeve stripe and pull the stripe into loops.

31. Do the same for the belt.

32. Make buttonholes into left front part/flaps/inset stripe/right lap. Sew buttons.