6039 PLEATED TROUSERS

YOU NEED: cotton (denim) or mixed fabric, linen of 150 cm width; fusing, zipper of the same color; 3 buttons.

CUTTING:

Fabric:

2. Back pocket valance - 2 pieces

3. Back pocket facing – 2 pieces

4. Belt loop detail – 1 piece

5. Button catch – 1 piece

7. Front part – 2 pieces

8. Back part – 2 pieces

9. Waistband left part – 1 piece

10. Waistband right part – 1 piece

Lining:

1. Back pocket lining - 2 pieces

6. Front pocket sacking – 4 pieces

Fusing: waistband derail, button catch.

INSTRUCTIONS:

Apply the fusing to wrong side of waistband and button catch.

Sew darts and press them to center. Make pleats into front parts (directing them to darts) and sew them at 2-3 cm from the upper part.

Make cut pockets into back parts: press 4 cm stripe of interfacing on the back part wrong side pocket marking. Press pocket facings along the center, right side over. Pin the facing along the pocket entrance, from down (the folding from the marked line), then pin the sacking, from upper, coinciding the edge and the marking. Stitch on 1 cm from the line. Cut the back part between stitched lines, bias to stitch ends. Be careful with facing and sacking when cutting! Press the seam allowances on the garment. Turn the facings into wrong side so that create a neat frame, then tack. From the right side, make a stitch strictly on the facing joining seam. Turn small triangles at slit ends into wrong side, then topstitch strictly on the facing from one stitch ends to another stitch ends. From the wrong side, sew pocket sacking free end to facing joining seam allowances, then press sacking downward, make them equal, then stitch.

Sew front middle seam 3-4 cm downward the closure. Press the one-piece facing to left part of trousers under the wrong side along the center. Cut the facing from the right part of trousers, leaving 1 cm allowance. Press this allowance to the wrong side and tuck one side of zipper, with its teeth close to folding. Fold the button catch along the center, with its wrong sides together, then tuck the lengthwise folding and the rounded one over. Tuck the ready edge, placing it under slit right side and the zipper. Topstitch the right side along the edge, joining the zipper and the button catch. Pin free middle lines together. Pin zipper ready braid to left side facing, then stitch; do not catch the front part. Then stitch the left part along the marking, catching facing and the zipper.

Sew side seams without stitching pocket entrance. Place front pockets sacking from inside on the pocket entrances allowance right sides together, then topstitch strictly along side seams marked lines. Press sackings toward front parts and sew them.

Sew inside leg seams. Neaten allowances.

Fold belt loops along the center, tuck and topstitch them. Sew belt loops to garment upper edge: on front part – above pleats, on back part – by sides of darts, near side seams.

Sew belt details to upper edge of the garment, sewing the closure allowance to button catch. Fold the belt detail along the center, then stitch front short edges. Sew the slit in front middle seam, then, with the same stitch, the back middle seam up to the waist upper edge. Turn waistband inner edges under and topstitch along joining seams. Turn belt loops upward and sew them to waistband upper edge. Turn the fifth belt loop under and sew it on back middle seam.

Turn hem allowances under, then topstitch them along the edges.

Make a buttonhole into waistband right end, sew the button on left one.