6046 LEATHER JACKET

YOU NEED: natural/artificial leather/suede of 150 cm width, lining, fusing, 4 buttons.

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Back yoke – 1 folded piece

2. Back part – 2 pieces

3. Collar – 2 folded pieces

4. Stand-up collar – 2 folded pieces

5. Back neckline facing – 1 folded piece

6. Front yoke – 2 pieces

7. Side front part – 2 pieces

8. Middle front part – 2 pieces

9. Front band – 2 pieces

10. Off-set welt – 2 pieces

12. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces

13. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces

14. Cuff – 4 pieces

Lining:

11. Sacking – 4 pieces

15. Back part – 1 folded piece

16. Front part – 2 pieces

17. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces

18. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces

Fusing: front band, off-set welt, collar, stand-up collar, cuff.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front band, off-set welt, collar, stand-up collar, cuff.

2. Stitch middle back seam. Press the seam leftwards and topstitch. Stitch back yoke to back part. Press the seam towards the yoke and topstitch it.

3. Overstitch off-set welt along short edges, turn them right side out and press folds. Make decorative stitch along welt’s edges. Coincide welt’s open edges to edge of center front part’s relieve: lay the welt on center front part’s right side coinciding welt’s upper edge with notch. Lay sacking’s upper part on the welt, tack them together. Lay sacking’s lower part on side front part’s right side. Stitch off-set welt and sackings. Stitch front relieve seams. Fold sackings in, adjust them and stitch together. Topstitch welts’ short edges on front part along decorative stitch.

4. Stitch front yoke to front part. Press the seam towards the yoke and topstitch it. Stitch shoulder seams.

5. Stitch stand-ups to collars, make top-stitched seams. Stitch neckline facing to front bands. Stitch inner collar into garment’s neckline. Stitch outer collar into neckline of facing and front bands. Lay outer collar joined with front bands on the garment, right sides together, and overstitch front bands and collar, then turn them right side out and press. Fix collars’ edges together.

6. Stitch sleeve seams. Make top-stitched seams along elbow seam. Stitch short edges of cuffs. Fold cuff details right sides together, stitch lower edges, turn the cuff right side out and press it. Lay cuffs on sleeves right sides together and stitch outer cuffs to sleeves. Topstitch cuffs along perimeters.

7. Stitch sleeves into armholes.

8. Stitch lining pieces, excepting a segment of about 20 cm length into elbow seam of one of sleeves. Insert the lining into the garment wrong sides together coinciding them along middle back lines and shoulder seams. Overstitch the garment with lining along front bands and neckline. Stitch the lining to garment hem and sleeve hem. Turn the garment right side out through unstitch segment of sleeve, then stitch segment’s edges together.

9. Make buttonholes into left front part, sew buttons on right one.