YOU NEED: fabric of 150 cm width suitable for raincoats;
lining; fusing; shoulder pads; 5 buttons.
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Off-set welt –
2 pieces
2. Back
yoke – 1 folded piece
3. Lower back part
– 2 pieces
4. Front
yoke – 2 pieces
5. Side
front part – 2 pieces
6. Center front
part - 2 pieces
7. Front band – 2
pieces
8. Collar – 2
folded pieces
9. Stand-up collar
– 2 folded pieces
10. Sleeve back belt –
2 pieces
12. Sleeve front
belt – 2 pieces
13. Upper sleeve –
2 pieces
14. Lower sleeve –
2 pieces
15. Belt loop – 1
piece
Lining:
1. Sacking – 4
pieces
2. Upper sleeve –
2 pieces
3. Lower sleeve –
2 pieces
4. Lower
back part – 2 pieces
5. Front
part – 2 pieces
Fusing: center front part, back vent allowance, welt’s half
width, front yoke, front bands, sleeve belts, collar, stand-up collar.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the
fusing to wrong side of center front part, back vent allowance, welt’s half
width, front yoke, front bands, sleeve belts, collar, stand-up collar.
2. Overstitch off-set welt along short edges, turn it
right side out and press bendings. Topstitch the detail at 1 c, fro, edges. Lay
the welt on center front part’s right side according to marks and coincide
welt’s open edges and center front relief’s edge. Lay sacking’s upper part on the
welt, tack them together. Lay sacking’s lower part on side front part’s right
side. Stitch the welt and sackings. Stitch front relieves and topstitch them.
Fold sackings inside, adjust them and stitch together. Topstitch welt’s short
edges on front part along decorative topstitching.
3. Stitch lower front parts to yokes. Press seams
upwards and topstitch them.
4. Stitch back
middle seam to the vent, press allowances leftward and topstitch. Fold vent’s
left allowance into right side, stitch it along hem line, turn into wrong side
and press it. Topstitch vent’s left edge. Fold right back part’s hem into right
side, stitch along vent’s allowance, fold into wrong side and press. Fold the
vent into left side and make diagonal stitch at vent’s top to fix it.
5. Stitch back
yoke, press seam allowances toward the yoke and topstitch. Stitch side/shoulder
seams.
6. Stitch stand-up collar s to inner/outer collars,
press seams apart and make decorative topstitching along both sides of seams.
Stitch inner collar joint with stand-up into garment’s neck.
7. Fold sleeve
belts along the center wrong sides out and overstitch along one long/one short
edges. Turn the detail right side out, and press.
8. Stitch sleeve’s
upper seams. Press seam allowances frontward and topstitch them. Stitch
sleeve’s lower seam inserting sleeve bents according to marks. Fold the belt
loop along the center wrong side out, stitch long edges, turn the detail right
side out, press and topstitch. Cut the detail into 8 pieces, fold belt loops’
open edges under and stitch to sleeves according to marks. Stitch sleeves into
armholes coinciding marks. Sew shoulder pads. Press sleeve hems under and sew
them with blind stitches.
9. Stitch front bands to front parts’ lining and
stitch lining details together. Stitch outer collar into lining neckline. Lay
the garment on the lining right sides together and stitch them together with
one stitch: 3 cm of front bands’ hems along front hem line, front edgings and
the collar. Turn the garment right side out, press and make decorative
topstitching along collar edges and front edgings.
10. Sew
inner/outer collars’ allowances together from inside.
11. Press
garment’s hem into wrong side and stitch along the edge. Cut the lining
strictly above the vent (diagonally to vent’s top). Fold slit allowances under
and sew them to vent’s allowances. Fold lining sleeve’s hem under and sew it to
fabric sleeve’s hem.
12. Neaten
buttonholes into sleeve belts and left front edging as well as upper
buttonholes into right lapel. Sew buttons.