YOU NEED: fabric suitable for shirt (150 cm width); fusing; 14
buttons.
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Stand-up collar
– 2 folded pieces
2. Back yoke – 2
folded pieces
3. Back part – 1
folded piece
4. Sacking – 2
pieces
5. Off-set welt –
1 piece
6. Front part one
piece with front band – 2 pieces
7. Placket – 1
piece
8. Sleeve – 2
pieces
9. Sleeve slit
facing – 2 pieces
10. Cuff – 2 pieces
Fusing: pocket frame, cuffs, placket, one-piece front bands,
collar.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the
fusing to wrong side of pocket frame, cuffs, placket, one-piece front bands,
collar.
2. Make a slit
pocket with welt into front part. Apply the stripe of fusing on the wrong side
of slit place. Overstitch the welt along short edges, turn it into right side
and press. Stitch the welt to front part along marked lines, right sides
together. Pin the sacking opposite to welt along marked slit line; stitch the
sacking at the same distance from slit line as the welt; the seam must be 0.5
cm shorter than the seam joining the welt. Cut front part between stitches
diagonally to stitch ends; do not cut pocket details. Turn sackings into wrong
side, press the welt towards pocket entrance. Stitch another sacking to welt
allowance (wrong side). Turn small triangles at hall ends into wrong side and
topstitch them on sackings accurately between upper stitch’s and lower stitch’s
ands. Adjust sackings by cutting them, then stitch. Tack welt short edges and
topstitch them by edges.
3. Stitch yoke
detail to front/back parts’ upper edges, then topstitch along the edge.
4. Stitch side
edges together. Fold hem allowance into wrong side and topstitch it.
5. Overstitch
inner collar and outer collar along outer edges and topstitch along edge. Tack
the collar into neckline. Fold one-piece front bands into right side. Stitch
another yoke to front bands. Overstitch the neckline with front bands and yoke.
Stitch inner yoke folding edges under, stitch it along the seam joining outer
yoke. Tack yoke open edges along armholes. Sew front bands to hem allowance.
6. Fold closure
placket along the center and overstitch it. Turn it right side out and press
it. Topstitch the placket along edge contour. Lay the placket under right front
part and tack them together coinciding middle lines. Topstitch edgings at 0.5
cm stitching the placket to right front part.
7. Process slits
into right and left sleeves in the same way “in mirror”. Make a slit. Fold the
nearest to seam line edge under and then again, as narrow as possible, then
topstitch. Fold the placket along the center wrong side out. Process the
placket along upper short side, then do the same at 3-cm segments of lengthwise
edges. Slash seam allowance at stitch ends. Turn the placket right side out and
press it. Stitch placket outer edge along the slit folding it right side on
sleeve right side. Slash sleeve seam allowance at stitch end. Press the placket
towards the slit. Fold placket inner art’s edge under and stitch it to joining
seam. Topstitch the placket along edge and joining sea; topstitch placket upper
end on the sleeve along the edge. Topstitch the placket
top crosswise.
8. Stitch sleeve
seams. Make pleats
into sleeve hem. Fold the
cuff along the
center, overstitch short edges
and along 1.5 cm of
lengthwise edges for
closure allowance. You will have 1 cm rest than you’ll stitch later to
sleeve slit allowance. Stitch cuffs to sleeve hems, fold inner edges under and
stitch them along joining seam. Topstitch cuffs. Make buttonholes
into cuffs and
sew buttons.
9. Stitch sleeves into armholes. Topstitch the garment
along seams joining sleeves.
10. Make buttonholes into left edge, sew buttons
corresponding them on placket. Sew other 6 buttons to right edge catching the
placket.