YOU NEED: poplin of 150
cm width; fusing; 11 buttons.
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Collar – 2 folded pieces
2. Stand-up collar – 2 folded pieces
3. Back yoke – 1 folded piece
4. Back part – 1 folded piece
5. Bust pocket – 2 pieces
6. Pocket facing – 4 pieces
7. Front part – 2 pieces
8. Fly yoke – 2 pieces
9. Sleeve – 2 pieces
10. Sleeve slit facing – 2 pieces
11. Cuff – 2 pieces
Fusing: pocket facing, cuffs, stand-up collar, collar.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of collar lower detail
and stand-up lower detail as well as cuffs and pocket facing.
2. Process slit pocket “in frame” into fly yokes. Apply
fusing stripe of 4 cm width to wrong side of place of cutting. Fold facings
along the center right side out. Sew facings along marked lines to front parts,
wrong sides together and with bendings out. Cut front part between stitches.
Cut it diagonally to stitch ends (do not cut through facing). Make neat frame
of facings. Turn small triangles at slit ends to wrong side and topstitch on facings
strictly between upper stitch ands and lower stitch ends. Topstitch facings
along joining seam. Neaten edges of bust pocket lay it fly yoke wrong side and
topstitch.
3. Sew back yoke to back part, press the seams towards
the yoke and topstitch.
4. Press
lower/middle edges of fly yoke to wrong side, fold under and topstitch. Tack
fly yokes to front parts along shoulder edges and armholes.
5. Sew
side/shoulder seams, press allowances backwards and topstitch.
6. Press
one-piece front band of front closure to wrong side, turn inner edge under and
topstitch.
7. Stitch both collar details right sides together
along outer contour. Turn right side out, press and topstitch. Lay one stand-up
on another on right sides together, insert the collar between them (according
to marks) and stitch; continue stitching on closure projection. Turn the collar
right side out, press open edges of stand-ups in, insert neckline edge between
them and stitch along the edge.
8. Make sleeve
pleats. Cut sleeves according to marks, make diagonal notches neat slit end and
sew the nearest to sleeve edge slit edge by hand. Lay sleeve slit facing right
side on sleeve wrong side, stitch and turn stitch allowance out. Fold slit
edges over with facing; fold facing open edges and topstitch on the garment.
Sew sleeve seam and sew sleeves into armholes.
9. Sew cuff
details right sides together along short edges, turn right side out and press.
Sew cuffs to sleeve hems, turn inner edges under and topstitch along joining
seam. Topstitch cuffs. Make buttonholes into cuffs and sew buttons.
10. Press
garment hem to wrong side, fold it under and topstitch.
11. Make
buttonholes into left front part and sew buttons to right one.