YOU NEED: moreen; fusing; 1 separable zipper; 3 clasps; Velcro;
decorative cord.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR,
THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3 cm for hem, for
pocket upper edges and short edges of side-lower parts.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Back yoke – 1
folded piece
2. Back part – 2
pieces
3. Bust right
pocket – 1 piece
4. Bust right
pocket flap – 2 pieces
5. Bust pocket
upper half-belt – 1 piece
6. Bust pocket
lower half-belt – 1 piece
7. Lower pocket –
2 pieces
8. Lower pocket
flap – 4 pieces
9. Lower pocket
upper flap – 2 pieces
10. Lower pocket
lower flap – 2 pieces
11. Front part – 2
pieces
12. Front band – 2
pieces
13. Back part
facing – 1 piece
14. Lower pocket
lower-side part – 2 pieces
15. Right bust
pocket lower-side part – 1 piece
16. Hood – 2
pieces
17. Hood facing –
1 piece
Fusing: front band, back neckline fusing, flap details.
CUTTING:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front band, back neckline fusing, flap details.
2. Lay flap details right side together and overstitch
along three sides. Cut overstitching seams, turn the flap right side out,
neaten it and press. Make decorative stitch along flap perimeter. Topstitch
Velcro “hair” segments on flaps according to marks. Remove tacking.
3. Fold the half-belt along the center and overstitch
along long and one of short edges. Turn half-belt right side out, neaten and
press it. Make decorative stitch along half-belt perimeter. Do the same for all
half-belts. Remove tacking.
4. Stitch
hood details and neaten the seam. Overstitch hood outer edge with facing. Make
buttonholes into facing. Fold the facing into wrong side, fold free edge under
and topstitch towards the hood.
5. Stitch lower-side parts to pockets right side
together and inserting lower half-belts between parts and pockets. Press pocket
lower edges into wrong side, fold it under and topstitch. Topstitch hooked
Velcro segments on the pocket according to marks.
6. Fold free edge of pocket lower-side part into wrong
side and topstitch it on front part according to marks.
7. Stitch flaps to front parts inserting upper
half-belts. Press flaps downwards and topstitch close to joining seam.
8. Lay front parts right sides together, adjust edges
and measure edging lengths. Stitch the zipper to edging. Fold closure edgings
and press them into wrong side.
9. Stitch middle back edge and neaten it. Press seam
allowance leftwards, topstitch left back detail along the seam. Stitch back
yoke to back part and press it towards yoke; topstitch the yoke.
10. Stitch side/shoulder seams. Neaten side/shoulder
seams and press them backwards.
11. Stitch
back neckline facing to front bands. Neaten facings and front band outer edges.
Lay front band on front part right sides together and overstitch along edging
and neckline, inserting the hood between them (on front part side). Neaten
edging lower corner. Turn edgings right side our and press seams.
12. Neaten armhole
allowances and press them into wrong side and topstitch. Press garment hem into
wrong side, fold it under and topstitch.
13. Make decorative
stitch along the zipper at 0.5 cm distance. Pull the cord into hood loops.