7114 PANTS WITH RELIEVES

YOU NEED: denim; fusing; 1 zipper; 1 button; elastic braid of 3 cm width.

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.

SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3 cm for hems.

NB! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Side front part – 2 pieces

2. Center front part – 2 pieces

3. Lower front part – 2 pieces

4. Lower back part – 2 pieces

5. Lower pocket – 2 pieces

6. Flap – 4 pieces

7. Center back part – 2 pieces

8. Side back part – 2 pieces

9. Yoke – 2 pieces

10. Waistband – 1 piece

11. Button catch – 1 piece

12. Belt loop – 2 pieces

Fusing: front waistband, flap, button catch, pocket entrance’s allowance.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front waistband, flap, button catch, pocket entrance’s allowance.

2. Stitch relieves seam of back right/left parts. Press relieve seam sideward slashing it at curved segment. Topstitch along relieve seam.

3. Stitch relieve seam of front right/left parts. Press relieve seam at front part. Topstitch along relieve seam.

4. Lay the sacking on side front part right sides together and overstitch pocket entrance. Fold the sacking into wrong side and press it. Lay side front part on side according to marks. Stitch sacking and neaten them.

5. Stitch lower front/back parts to front/back parts correspondingly.

6. Stitch yokes to back parts, neaten seams, press them towards the yoke and topstitch.

7. Neaten side seams and stitch them. Press side seams backwards.

8. Lay flaps right sides together and overstitch them along outer contour. Turn the flap through upper open edge. Topstitch the flap at 0.5 cm from flap’s edges. Neaten upper edge of lower pocket, fold it into wrong side and topstitch. Press lower/side edges according to the pattern. Mark pocket’s place and topstitch the pocket. Topstitch the flap according to marks. Turn the flap into right side and topstitch it at 0.5 cm from joining seam.

9. Neaten front/middle edges and hems. Stitch inseams and neaten them. Press inseams backwards. Stitch front/middle edge up to closure notch. Make another stitch along crotch seam close to the stitch joining front/middle seams.

10. Press closure one-piece facings into wrong side. Stitch the zipper under closure left allowance. Stitch zipper’s free braid to right one-piece facing. Fold the facing along the center and overstitch lower short edge. Topstitch closure one-piece facing on button catch at left part. Topstitch slit’s right edge catching the facing.

11. Neaten waistband’s inner edge. Stitch the edge to garment’s upper edge. Lay elastic braid on the waistband at back part’s level. (The braid overlaps side seams by 1 cm.) Fix ends with stitch at side seam level (and additionally with a seam in waistband’s middle). Overstitch waistband’s ends, cut seam allowances in corners and turn the detail right side out. Topstitch waistband’s lower neatened edge on joining seam and press ready waistband.

12. Press hem allowances into wrong side and topstitch. Make buttonhole into waistband’s right end, sew the button on left one.